NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: Jakov Minić on July 23, 2015, 11:40:30
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Dear NG friends,
In order to make a complete revival I am of the opinion that a dedicated Df thread should exist within our community.
Mind you I am not a real expert on cameras and I have never done a review of one, but that doesn't mean that I cannot share my experience with you. And, I urge you all to share your thoughts with the NG community :)
I have been using the camera for about 18 months now and I love it. What is it that I like about the Df:
- It made me use manual focus lenses that I rarely used on my previous DSLRs. Manual focussing became a breeze;
- The high ISO capabilities of the Df surpassed all my previous cameras and shooting at 12800 ISO has become a normality and I still cannot figure out how there is practically no noise at such ISO;
- The commands are something to get used to, but when you do, it's a true joy to turn those wheels;
- The looks, well, my panda is so cool.
Things that I would like to see improved with the next version:
- The grip, it's less comfortable in the hands, and still am getting used to it (probably spoiled by the D4);
- The autofocus, and the spread of autofocus points (again probably spoiled by the D4 and spread on a D300).
Attached is a photo that was made during our last get together in Slovenia as an illustration, Df+PN-11+180/2.8
Thanks, Jakov
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I'm still loving mine although, due to what I shoot, I'm using the D750 more. I agree with your 'likes' except I have the Black and would get the "Panda" in a Df2 or if I am able to buy a second Df at a good price. At the moment my favourite dealer is asking me for more than I paid for the first >:( .
I am totally with you on the AF point spread. Having the dedicated AE-l/AF-l button and the AF-on button helps. Now if Nikon would just bring back the AF selector switch I would be a very happy bunny :D. The only time I wish for a larger grip is when I am trying to MF with a longer, heavier lens. The 135 2.8 Q is about as big as I use for MF.
Then I would really like to have a more secure, stable grip with my right hand. No problem with larger AF lenses.
Very nice image. The touch of colour/light, upper left really makes it for me. I'm still waiting for my 180 f2.8D to return from my daughter. Had a chance to pick up a 180 2.8 Ais but it went too quickly.
Cheers,
Tom
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No secret that I am in love with my Df cameras. They are the embodiment of the digital camera I always wished for. It is not perfect by a long stretch of imagination but neither am I, so we make a nice couple (or threesome, as long as I can keep them out of mishaps :()
The Df brings back joy into a long photographic career and makes me appreciate all those beautiful Nikkors i have amassed by trial and error over many decades.
One of the latest additions was a clean 85 mm f/1.8 Nikkor from mid '70s (a late 'K' model). It was pre-AI, but since I had company with my good friend Erik [aka 'Dr. Lens'], warping it into 'Ai' was a breeze and adding the CPU completed its transition. I fondly remembered the 85/1.8 Nikkor-HC which in its time secured some of the nicest portraits I have taken, but by some strange incidents I sold it in '77 only later to always want another one. A cheap sample in a Copenhagen photo shop provided the opportunity to rectify the situation.
On the Df, the 85/1.8 delivers the kind of nicely mellow, moderately contrast images so perfectly suited to the camera NEFs and the brutal treatment they receive later.
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I really like both but a nod to the first image. I really like the softer effect in the first but love the vividness of the colours contrasting in the second. I'm still not 'seeing' these types of images :( . Too much PJ, documentary and Bird shooting.
I use the 85 1.4D (never thought about going for the G) . I am gradually building a collection of the older lenses and just as gradually learning the nuances of each and which I prefer.
Many thanks for the info on the 105 1.8 Ais. I've decided that it really doesn't improve on the 105 f2.5's I already have. I do remember your comment re: AF on the DC105 f2D and your comment on the need for fine tuning on the Df . I had the 105 2.8vr on the Df this morning when I dropped my son to town in the rain. Still faster for me than my MF's. Much better with lens hood from the 60 2.8G (HB-42) , I'll have to mention it to Roland if he doesn't know about it. . Clicks right into place with no looseness :) . Much less intimidating than the orig.
Many thanks again,
Tom
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The Df can produce any kind of image. It all depends on the photographer. Perhaps it's not the ultimate tool for sports and suchlike events, but that never has bothered me and I can always haul out the trustworthy D3S for that kind of shooting.
I have had the AFS 105/2.8 VR and quickly sold it off, despite it was a Micro-Nikkor. The APO-Lanthars 125/2.5 are hard to beat and suit the Df perfectly.
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Hi,Jakov you said it all,
Nice camera to live with,I like it match with manual lens,so the left hand mainly holding the camera,not the right hand,then the camera grip not an issue for me,the DF+pk11a+Zeiss 100 f2 gave real nice color and can reach more close to subject.
Lloyd
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I had the 105 2.8vr on the Df this morning when I dropped my son to town in the rain. Still faster for me than my MF's. Much better with lens hood from the 60 2.8G (HB-42) , I'll have to mention it to Roland if he doesn't know about it. . Clicks right into place with no looseness :) . Much less intimidating than the orig.
So you are saying the HB-62 (for AFS 60/2.8 micro) fits the AFS 105/2.8 VR micro?
Does it work the other way round - HB-38 for 105 fit the 60? Might be a good option for DX.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/442/19992530336_fe99b40401_b.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/559/20011264872_b569fd5e73_b.jpg)
wind and rain
Df 58g
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Hi Roland, funny but I did not try it the other way (just did) but yes, they are interchangeable. The HB-38 is a perfect fit for the 60 2.8G macro makes it a longer lens ;) . I started by looking for options to the HB-38 on the 105vr so just tried some hoods I already owned. The HB-42 is not petal and shorter than the HB-38 (which is what I wanted) but the HN-24/23 are even shorter. I'll have to take some images with the 60 2.8 with the HB-38 to see if it is too long and interferes with the image. I will shoot both lenses with swapped hoods on the D7100 and an Fx to compare.
These do not operate as the as the swap of the HB-29 with HB-48 70-200 f2.8vrI vs VRII. The HB-29 did not go on or come off easily (as in perfect fit) when used on the newer lens. I quickly went back to the HB-48 with the VRII.
Cheers,
Tom
Ps, that 60 2.8G with the HB-38 is longer than the 105 with the HB-42 but 105 still much heavier .
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Guys and Gals, did the Macro APO Lanthar 125 f2.5 (SL) come in an Ais mount? Just out of interest I was searching the Net and a couple of people from Japan selling as Nikon Ais. Not something I am going to rush to buy off the Net at the prices, just interested ;)
I may see if I can get a bite locally. Some unusual lens pop up here in India.
Cheers,
Tom
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Yes. it may even be AI-P (with CPU)?
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the 90, 125 and 180 Apo´s were produced as AIS (chrome nose)
the 2nd 90 was made later as AIP (black)
the 125 with chip is only available modified to AIR or AIL (handcrafted nordic lens art)
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Here are two APO Lanthars of the 125/2.5 kind. One was originally AIS, the other started out as an EOS mount if memory serves (Erik please correct if I'm mistaken, you know also the nit-picking details of how to modify the lens).
(http://www.fotozones.com/live/uploads/monthly_01_2014/post-15-0-96683500-1389279310.jpg)
Both are CPU-enabled of course. The original AIS is now AI-P, the other is AI-G.
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One of them where a Canon FD mount :) See here:
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=528.0
Yes they have linear aperture same as Nikkor Ais lenses so can be P-Type or G-Type lenses with a CPU
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Thanks all , Bjorn, appreciate the image. Erik, I actually did read that but was not even remotely interested in obtaining the lens. Still, I should have remembered... short term memory is the first to go ???
I've posted a Want to Buy on the largest local Forum but so far only a couple of lol posts and one from a friend who wants to know if I get any joy .
The prices being asked on the NET are above the prices of a new Zeiss 135 Zf.2 f2 APO Sonnar and considerably more than the Zeiss 100 Zf.2 f2 Makro. It also looks as if buying the lens on the NET would not be recommended since getting it in and out of India would be problematic. The size/weight of the Lanthar is a big plus :) .
I might get lucky locally... another lol :)
Tom
Erik, add in the cost of coming to find you .... ;)
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I am still very happy with my Df.
It's a breeze to use it ! :)
Now I have mastered the ergonomics of this body and I feel as comfortable as did 30 years ago with my old Canon FTb...
Why did I buy it ?
# the quality of its sensor, the same as D4 one (dynamics and high iso);
# ability to mount non AI/auto lenses;
# quieter shutter;
# light weight.
Its nostagic look is a plus, but it's not among the first motivations, as most of its detractors tend to believe...
Actually, I get more pleasure using it than I expected before buy it.
But, nothing is perfect in this world and to be honest, they are some drawbacks I want to mention :
# this STUPID viewfinder' lid you have to attach with string. I would have prefered paying few £/€ extra and get the same blind that Nikon provided with anterior bodies (D700/F4, ect.)
# The first time I opened the battery/memory card cover/lid fell down...So there are two options if don't want to loose it : 1/ use stiky tape; 2/ close it straightaway after battery or memory card extraction.
# No battery meter which let you know the condition of the battery (like D700/D300 and more). Not essential, but useful.
Something annoying I would like pointing out :
The Df'ability to accept non AI lenses is a major feature (at least for my use), however it's quite ponderous using it :
# 1/ rise up the aperture lever. If you forget, you mess it up.
# 2/ mount the non AI lens;
# 3/ turn aperture ring at your opted aperture;
# 4/ display the aperture stop you opted using the rear dial. the f/stop is displayed on the small screan (like any lens)
# 5/ and you have to do this last operation EACH TIME YOU CHANGE THE F/STOP...
# Don't forget to put down the aperture lever if you use after an AI/AF lens, otherwise the exposure will be mistaken.
I have question to the Fierce Bear :
Bjørn, do you need to do this operation (# 4/) each time you change the aperture stop as all your lenses are CPU-chipped ?
Thank you, Francis.
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Not exactly. Firstly, I have converted most of my older pre-AI lenses to either AI with a P-type CPU, or let it be unmodified, but mounted a G-type CPU instead. In the later case I just need flipping up the aperture follower lever and set the lens to its smallest aperture.
Secondly, for the few lenses I have left untouched, I use them in a different manner from what you describe. I set them to an f-number (say f/5.6) intended to be used for the entire shooting session, get the appropriate exposure accordingly, and just fire away.
However, given the convenience of being able to use these old lenses without any special procedure, I try to AI-convert then CPU-modify any I purchase unless there is a reason not to do so.
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I use them in a different manner from what you describe. I set them to an f-number (say f/5.6) intended to be used for the entire shooting session, get the appropriate exposure accordingly, and just fire away.
Thanks, Bjørn for this prompt answer !
That's actually what I do now most of the time (f/5.6) and sometime I change for full aperture when I want a nice background for instance.
Also I noticed when I download my images from camera to computer. the battery gets empty if I leave it on for a while after the images transfert. 15mn is enough to completely flatten it.
Has any user experienced this small issue ?
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I use them in a different manner from what you describe. I set them to an f-number (say f/5.6) intended to be used for the entire shooting session, get the appropriate exposure accordingly, and just fire away.
Thanks, Bjørn for this prompt answer !
That's actually what I do now most of the time (f/5.6) and sometime I change for full aperture when I want a nice background for instance.
Also I noticed when I download my images from camera to computer. the battery gets empty if I leave it on for a while after the images transfert. 15mn is enough to completely flatten it.
Has any user experienced this small issue ?
I never transfer files Camera -> Computer via USB, I always use a card reader so I have never experienced it. But processing involved in such transfer is power dependent so no wonder.
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You mean, you stick a USB cable to the camera and download through that? The drain is probably caused by protocol talk between camera and PC.
Instead, pull the card from the camera and use a card reader. Most laptops these days have an SD-card reader facility. For stationary machines, card readers are cheap and connect through USB or similar.
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You mean, you stick a USB cable to the camera and download through that?
Yes, that's exactly what I do.
I do it like that to avoid repetitive memory card withdrawals which could damage the body contacts.
I certainly am paranoid ! :P
That said, I use a card reader as well.
Anyway, the Df battery is very good : I can take so many pics (I rarely use live view). Another thing the Df detractors don't admit !
Some images will follow. :)
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I've had the Df for over 2.5 years (can that be right??) and in some ways know the in's and out's, but also am often "too casual" with my technique or my settings. I'd love any tips on day to day operations of the Df. One memory was an older Bjorn post about how he holds the Df, I think he had a picture of it.
On operating the settings as I shoot, I pretty much pull the camera down, look at it, adjust the knobs and raise the camera again. I rarely feel comfortable changing the Exp Comp by touch. I rarely change the ISO, relying on excellent Auto ISO. Sometimes I change the Aperture, that one i feel most comfortable. I wonder how many operate the knobs by touch?
Any must-change settings in the menus? I shoot Raw and either a slightly vivid setting or monochrome so that my review images match how I may ultimately process in LR. Sometimes I use AF-ON, but not a wholesale conversion. Mostly AF-C with continuous low speed shutter.
I rarely use the three function buttons on the front. As you can see there is much more I can get out of the Df !!
And finally a picture of my daughter for interest... 105 2.8 (which prior to yesterday has had minimal use)...
Cheers,
Rob.
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Nice portrait, Rob !
Which 105mm have you used ? The AFS VR or AFD ?
My settings :
# almost always mode ''A''
# Raw.
# white balance : AUTO1
# picture control : standart
Here : landscaping with the 105 mm 2.5 AI.
1/ Inside a crater. Very old volcano (centre of France, near Clermont-Ferrand) . Used for decades as quarry, now used as like a museum.
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2/ Landscaping with 28mm f/2 AI :
Cirque de Troumouse, Pyrénées, France. Spain is just behind.
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3 / Street with the nikkor 55mm f/1.2
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Trey Ratcliff's photowalk in Washington DC last night, was a fun reason to get out and shoot, although hard to take pictures with 250 other photographers swarming around!
My gallery of DC monuments at night, all Df with 24-120 f4 and then 20 1.8
http://goo.gl/QcwVLF
Fun outing!
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Rob and Francis, some great shots there :)
Keep them coming!
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My favourite subject by far. ;D
Df + 105/2.5 AI-s
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Chris, lovely subject, indeed :)
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Rob and Francis, some great shots there :)
Keep them coming!
Thanks, Jakov !
Sure I'll post more pictures... ;)
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Df + nikkor 55mm f/1.2 (AIed by filing)
Here are 2 pictures to show :
# 1 the background given with the nikkor K 55mm f/1.2 wide open. Optical flaws and aberrations are actually its pictorial assets.
# 2 stopped dowm @ f/5.6 to compare.
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# 2
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Francis, I prefer it wide open, it looks so dreamy!
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There is something wrong when the Camera Bag thread and the Windows 10 thread are more active than the DF thread!!!
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At this time, we tend to take the pleasures of the Df for granted ....
A warning though: this camera is not as robust as its exterior suggests. So treat it with tender care and it'll do a good service for years.
Also, it cannot fly on its own. I have a plastic bag filled with Df parts to prove this assertion. Erik will later get a 3-D puzzle to enjoy himself with :D
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What happened with your Df again?
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The repair shop couldn't make the damaged camera fully reliable again, so condemned it to a future existence as a parts store instead. Alternatively, if Erik can puzzle the bits and pieces together again, we have a truly matured experimental camera at our disposal.
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I am confident Erik will make it even better!
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Df, 50/1.4 AIS @ f/4, 1/125s, 100 ISO
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Airy, the way they look at each other is very interesting, it is easy to imagine stories from this image.
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Lovely photo Airy, they must be in love :)
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Airy, the way they look at each other is very interesting
This is exactly what I thought when I saw Airy's picture... :)
Airy, this is a perfectly exposed B&W, thanks the Df's amazing dynamics.
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Their gazes are locked into each other like Harry Potter's and Voldemort's wands, one is light, the other dark. No idea about their relationship, but for sure they are a good match as far as musical performance is concerned.
Besides, the reason I re-posted the pic here is because of its "classic" features: Df, the old 50mm, and B&W somehow fit.
This is the kind of snapshot that would keep me shooting.
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At this time, we tend to take the pleasures of the Df for granted ....
A warning though: this camera is not as robust as its exterior suggests. So treat it with tender care and it'll do a good service for years.
Also, it cannot fly on its own. I have a plastic bag filled with Df parts to prove this assertion. Erik will later get a 3-D puzzle to enjoy himself with :D
Hope you are OK this time, Bjørn. So, is this a 21st century version of Humpty Dumpty?
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I am confident Erik will make it even better!
He he, this will be quite a challange...
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Upon testing out this bokeh struggler I found by stopping the K down to f/4 it is actually quite sharp and useable.
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Lovely atmosphere, sharpness and bokeh! Which K? 28/3.5?
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Lovely atmosphere, sharpness and bokeh! Which K? 28/3.5?
It says in the lower right border...50/1.4.
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Df + 300E at the Pre-Sail event at IJmuiden (near Amsterdam). At the back are the lights of the Tata Steel factory.
ISO5000, F4.0, 1/100 handheld
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That is a lovely shot Chris! Almost-complementary green and orange makes me think of clementines (which I love).
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Lovely atmosphere, sharpness and bokeh! Which K? 28/3.5?
It says in the lower right border...50/1.4.
Clearly visible, I must be blind :)
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Fantastic shot Chris!
Amazingly sharp for a handheld shot at such a slow shutter speed!
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In a thread not so long ago I posted images of the D4 coupled with 24/1.4.
There I praised the both of them with a note that I had difficulties auto-focusing the 24/1.4 on a Df in low light.
Yesterday, I went for dinner at my friend's house and I decided to give it another shot.
Hence, Df and 24/1.4.
I made a couple of test shots, and wasn't surprised that my photos were out of focus. The test was really simple, I simple place an LP against the wall.
Then, my brilliant mind decided to try Live View, and voila, how genius can a person in the shape of myself be.
To conclude, the combination of Df and 24/1.4 really works in low light situations, but if you plan on nailing the focus Live View is a must 8)
Even if the auto focus worked reliably, I would not have been able to take these shots without manually focusing anyway. ::)
So, here are two shots of my friend spinning records @1.4.
Both images simply processed in ViewNX2 so basically just exported as jpeg files suitable for the web.
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I like mostly-oof shots and your 24/1.4 shots are nice. But fast wide angles are harder to focus with the stock focusing screen. I installed a precision matte Canon type S one and life gets easier with fast lenses.
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Here's a shot from my way to work this morning. Aperture f/8.
I tried the new Lightroom dehaze slider (gives a little lighter halo over the hills and far away).
Flare is unavoidable in this case.
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For about 10 years now I have been using my favorite 85/1.4D.
My kids were mostly my main subjects and still continue to be.
This is one of those lenses that shine on any camera. I started of with D70, then in the following order, D200, D300, D700, and now with the Df. Needless to say that the best results are with the Df :)
Here is a snapshot of my son during dinner @f/1.4.
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Jakov, a really excellent image. I really like the lower contrast in the B&W and dof. The 85 1.4D, 58 1.4G and 105 2.5 Ais/Ai are my favourite lenses when not shooting birds or Sport .
Sten, that is quite a stunner with the 50 1.4. I agree with the colours and bokeh. Framing is works for me :)
Chris, that is a very unique image. Love it. I didn't think of Tata Steel as great for images ;). You should send it to them, Sir Ratan would certainly enjoy it.
I really need to think of, and visualize, some different types of images .
Thanks all,
Tom
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I started of with D70, then in the following order, D200, D300, D700, and now with the Df. Needless to say that the best results are with the Df :)
Here is a snapshot of my son during dinner @f/1.4.
Well done this portrait, Jakov ! Looks like natural.
I also started with the D70, then D300, D700 and now Df...I was about to buy the D200, but the D300 came out with many improvements. ;)
I really enjoy the df too.
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Thank you Tom and Francis.
I am looking forward in seeing your images made with the Df.
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Here are few images made with the Df + sigma 24-105mm f/4 Art.
I like this zoom although it's no very popular.
#1
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#2
Falmouth, cornwall, UK.
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#3
Cirencester, Gloucestershire, UK.
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#4
Stonehenge at dusk.
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Here are few images made with the Df + sigma 24-105mm f/4 Art.
I like this zoom although it's no very popular.
#1
Hey, I really like this flower shot!
Why is the Sigma not popular, or better yet, why do you like it?
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#5
Top hill in Cornwall : windy place !
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Why is the Sigma not popular, or better yet, why do you like it?
Well, always people blame lens they don't ever use ! I've heard some complaints about the slow AF. I admit that some times the AF needs a very contrasty area to work. And most of complainers point out the vignetting ( which can be easily sorted out with a good software).
I actually bought this lens to take pictures of a wedding of my GF daughter as I didn't want to change prime lenses every 5 minutes.(it was an official photographer to cover it), so just for my pleasure. (I didn't take any pics in the church as I didn't want to bother him).
So, I planned to resale it after the event, but I found it so convenient (and optically good) that I am not sure I will resale it ! ;D
It's perfect fot travel. :)
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All great shots! but the flower shot against the light is so well done - Lovely!
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Summer's ending and what is better than sailing by wind or motor.
Df with 135/2.8 Q·C @f/5.6.
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All great shots! but the flower shot against the light is so well done - Lovely!
Thank you for your comment, Erik ! :)
@ Sten : amazing clouds !
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Sten, I'd go for the sailing with wind :)
Lovely contrasty photo you made there!
I guess a 135mm lens is a must...
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#4
Stonehenge at dusk.
Was the glow of light behind the henge really there?
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Brimpsfield Church, Gloucestershire - the 20mm f/4 on a very chilly morning last February
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The L3008 ship is the RFA Mounts Bay.
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Was the glow of light behind the henge really there?
I think it comes from the processing with Gimp. I didn't add any glow.The raw is in UK, I just arrived in France (hence this late answer !), and I am not able to check it. ;)
Cheers, Francis.
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Here is an image of a meeting/mating of Zygaenia fausta.
I used the micro nikkor 100mm f/4.
I really enjoy this sharp and light (in weight and price) lens. :)
This one will follow me wherever I go !
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Francis, a really nice closeup.
You mean the 105mm f/4?
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What I like about the Df (well one of many things I like) is that if you see something that looks like it may make a good photograph, the Df will help you take the photo that your mind sees. I was walking home this evening, the light fading and a calmness telling me that night was nearing. I saw the first tints of red and so set my Df up with the 300mm f/4.5. The photo, whilst not exciting, was pleasing to take and a moment in time that is now passed as it is now pitch black. The more I use my Df, the more I like it.
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And a different take on the reflections and water.
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Francis, a really nice closeup.
You mean the 105mm f/4?
Yes, that one.
Also it has a very long throw ( more than 320 degrees), so you can obtain accurate focus.
Cheers, Francis.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/580/21135206816_57f42c42e1_b.jpg)
Turnhout station, Df 58mm/1.4g @ f/3.5
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My favourite camera/lens combination is the FM3 with Voigtlander 20mm f/3.5 and 40mm f/2. The Df seems to be the camera I need, but can anyone comment on how either or both of those lenses perform on the Df?
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Ian, I really like the second version for its composition and the fact it is a little brighter than the first. Is this Hemel Hempstead?
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My favourite camera/lens combination is the FM3 with Voigtlander 20mm f/3.5 and 40mm f/2. The Df seems to be the camera I need, but can anyone comment on how either or both of those lenses perform on the Df?
Just snapped a few with the cv20, cant speak for the 40/f2 which i dont own, take a pixel look and you will find some 'unwanties'.
1(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5633/21152852452_743cb382e6_b.jpg)
2(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5798/20541996283_db5c1dee91_b.jpg)
3(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5801/20976474029_45bb25b340_b.jpg)
4(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/696/20976474229_875d4da3cd_b.jpg)
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My favourite camera/lens combination is the FM3 with Voigtlander 20mm f/3.5 and 40mm f/2. The Df seems to be the camera I need, but can anyone comment on how either or both of those lenses perform on the Df?
I have the 40/2, and performance on the Df leaves nothing to be desired - if you like the 40/2 style, that is (I do like it). The combination Df + 40/2 with close-up lens + 105/2.5 is one of my travel combos, by the way.
Imaging performance aside, the size and weight of the 40/2 fit the Df well, and focussing on the standard matte screen is fairly easy. The 40/2 only disappoints a bit at night or with strong backlighting; here the Zeiss 35/2 for instance is vastly superior.
A few examples here : https://www.behance.net/gallery/28342491/Gardening-%282%29
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Off Topic: I love your Garden Fons.
On Topic: I have a CV40, and have found that it works well with both my Df and the D700 before that. It is a very light and compact lens, with an extra stop over the otherwise desireable Nikon 45P lens. As a light & compact lens, it soemhow seems in keeping with the design and ergonomics of the Df. The newish 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor (FX version) maybe worth a look if AF is important to you.
My favourite camera/lens combination is the FM3 with Voigtlander 20mm f/3.5 and 40mm f/2. The Df seems to be the camera I need, but can anyone comment on how either or both of those lenses perform on the Df?
Just snapped a few with the cv20, cant speak for the 40/f2 which i dont own, take a pixel look and you will find some 'unwanties'.
.............................................
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Ian, I really like the second version for its composition and the fact it is a little brighter than the first. Is this Hemel Hempstead?
Spot on Mike - yes, Hemel Hempstead. Just along the canal. Thanks for the input, I was working on trying to get a look that portrayed the waning but clear light and the Df was the camera perfect for the task.
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The Df auto-focuses very quickly. 8)
I was able to grab focus on these Brewer's Blackbirds as they flew in front of the erupting geyser using the Df and 24-70/2.8G AFS. This is not really a birding lens, but the combo still worked to catch these BIFs.
The 2nd, smaller foto shows how far I was from the birds and geyser.
1) Brewer's Blackbirds Flying in front of Old Faithful, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.
2) Similar uncropped foto, for context.
I note that resizing has created a bit of halo-ing around the dark birds which is not there in the full size versions.
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Another BIF grab while touring a Yellowstone geyser basin.
1) Osprey with Df + 24-70/2.8G AFS :: Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
The bird was brightened a bit with an NX2 colour point.
Some vignetting was removed.
2) Uncropped foto for context.
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Off Topic: I love your Garden Fons.
On Topic: I have a CV40, and have found that it works well with both my Df and the D700 before that. It is a very light and compact lens, with an extra stop over the otherwise desireable Nikon 45P lens. As a light & compact lens, it soemhow seems in keeping with the design and ergonomics of the Df. The newish 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor (FX version) maybe worth a look if AF is important to you.
My favourite camera/lens combination is the FM3 with Voigtlander 20mm f/3.5 and 40mm f/2. The Df seems to be the camera I need, but can anyone comment on how either or both of those lenses perform on the Df?
Just snapped a few with the cv20, cant speak for the 40/f2 which i dont own, take a pixel look and you will find some 'unwanties'.
.............................................
The finished images on my computer i uploaded to flickr at 1024pxs wide and linked to nikongear are much sharper than shown here :o
comparing filesize compression is about 50%
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Thanks for the replies. That is very helpful.
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One from this morning with the MF 180mm f/2.8 ED - John
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The finished images on my computer i uploaded to flickr at 1024pxs wide and linked to nikongear are much sharper than shown here :o
- To see your image at the full 1024 pixels width, first expand your browser to full screen size.
- If the image is still compressed, close any sidebars.
- If the image is still compressed, right-click the image and select View Image in the expanded browser with no sidebars.
Forum software does not give as much space as Flickr in which to display images.
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I like the mystery...what is that thing in the background?
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If you mean what's in the background of my 180mm shot Keith, it was taken in the same churchyard as my shots on the 36-72mm thread in Lens Talk, it's a headstone or something similar
hth
John
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The 45P in action.
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John: I love the architecture study in thunderstorm light for its very balanced construction and the boy on the "fiets" for his emotional response
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I agree with Frank. The last really grabbed my attention. The diagonal path of the bike adds dynamism to the after the thunderstorm light.
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I love the 45P!
The bicycle shot is great, John!
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Thank you Frank, Anthony and Jakov. And I think the 45P loves the Df ;)
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There is no known camera that did not harmonize with this exceptional lens.
I wish Nikon would build a "no nonsense Df", a pure body like a FM-D with only one straight workflow implemented on it (not two), uncluttered, Zen-like.
This is what I would buy immediately
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Frank, what it is exactly that the Df features and makes it nonsense?
What would you remove to make it more simple?
And, by removing these features would the camera be more simple?
I don't see clearly what you mean when saying uncluttered and zen-like?
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John, love the last one with the boy riding through the water spouts. I really like the exposure and colours.
Tom
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Frank, what it is exactly that the Df features and makes it nonsense?
What would you remove to make it more simple?
And, by removing these features would the camera be more simple?
I don't see clearly what you mean when saying uncluttered and zen-like?
As for what would be zen, here are two Zen stories.
A young man approached a great sword-master, and said "How long will it take for me to master the art?". The master replied "10 years". The young man said "But I will work and study night and day". The master replied "In that case, 15 years". The young man said, "Look, you don't get it, I will do whatever you want but I am in a hurry". "In that case, 20 years".
A great sword-master had three sons. He wished to test them. He went to his study, and placed a pillow over the door so that the pillow would fall on anyone entering the room. He called his oldest son. The oldest son opened the door and the pillow fell on his head. The master said "You have studied well, and I accept you as my equal as a master". He called the second son, who saw the pillow before he opened the door and removed it so it did not fall. The master said "You have studied well, but you have much more to learn". He called the third son, who did not see the pillow and opened the door, but before the pillow hit his head he swept out his sword and cut the pillow into four. The master said "You have learned nothing".
In terms of imagery, this is a zen painting, by the great Mu Qi
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Les, I get it now thanks to your Zen stories that make a lot of sense :D
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You just got a pillow in your head Jakov ;D
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You just got a pillow in your head Jakov ;D
That means that I have studied well and that you accept me as a master :)
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Yes
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Straight?
Zenlike?
Works for me?
(http://fotokontext.de/vk_html/fm2vo.jpg)
The Df works for many, but not for me.
I always felt like holding a hybrid between a D600 which I use daily and love and a FM-2 which I used daily from 1988 til 2004 and loved to bits.
Two in one. Df ... "f = fusion" felt like "c= confusion" for me.
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Does 'Confusion' mean that you like adjusting the settings of your camera by going through the menus?
On the FM2 you couldn't even have an ISO dial, remember :)
Just like the Df can't have the roll-your-film dial :)
Quite nicely on top of the ISO/film dial you can also find the exposure compensation dial. Quite genius if you ask me.
The top right hand of the two look very similar to me by having three elements; sharing the shutter speed dial and the shutter release.
A famous formula 1 driver Gerhard Berger once started complaining how they were introducing to many dials on his steering wheel to which the other formula 1 drivers just rolled their eyes (films).
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The ISO-Dial on the FM2 is clear to be seen on the picture. It is integrated into the Time-Dial.
(http://dapagroup.com/dotcom/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/FM2N1.jpg)
I do not complain that the Df does not have enough dials for me, she has too many, because she can be used as a D600-Type-Camera as well as in the old FM/FE/F3 way.
The Fuji Interface is wonderful. I never use the menus, I use three freely configurable buttons (one for ISO, one for Macro Mode, one for drive) to access the functions I need without even taking the eye from the huge bright optical viewfinder.
What do I miss on the Fuji? Exchangable Nikkor lenses.
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John, love the last one with the boy riding through the water spouts. I really like the exposure and colours.
Tom
Thank you, Tom.
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I do not complain that the Df does not have enough dials for me, she has too many, because she can be used as a D600-Type-Camera as well as in the old FM/FE/F3 way.
The Fuji Interface is wonderful. I never use the menus, I use three freely configurable buttons (one for ISO, one for Macro Mode, one for drive) to access the functions I need without even taking the eye from the huge bright optical viewfinder.
What do I miss on the Fuji? Exchangable Nikkor lenses.
I tend to agree with this. I love the Df and use it as often as I shoot (weekly-ish) but have never gotten the hang of all the unlock buttons to move dials without looking at them. I am sure it can be done, but it is not in my "muscle memory". I am tempted by the Fuji, probably the XT-1 or future X-Pro2. But to get all new lenses.... sigh. Maybe one day there will be a Nikon mirrorless with F-mount and a refined Df interface.
In the meantime, two from the current Df!!
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My experience with the Df is limited to fooling around with Bjørns spare Df during one of our trips, though I've shot Nikons for years it feels a bit weird handling one compared to my Sony a7S (how quickly can we get used something else).
That said I can totally see myself owning one of these beauties in the future, would be prefect in combination with my 50/1.2 Ai-S.
This one was shot in Montenegro last year with Bjørns Df and his chipped Noct Nikkor 58/1.2:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14340567448_bb4673953b_o.jpg)
And here is Mister Cool himself - aka Jakovic - using his Panda Df and 300/4.5 Ai-S
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/15361012305_344d14be69_o.jpg)
Sony a7S with Voigtlander 125/2.5 APO Lanthar EF
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Cool shot of the Df :) , not a starring role Mr. Cool ;) . Since you have shot the Df, what do you think about the Df files compared to the 12 MP files coming from your a7s? I really enjoy working with the Df files more than the D750 files. I am wondering what an a7sII will look like and at what price.
Cheers,
Tom
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The upper deck control dials are fine but the buttons and directional pads are still very much like toys compared to the Dƒ's.
I know 'cause I've tried the switch twice. As for the files...yes, RAF's are good but the NEF's from the Dƒ are more flexible. JPEGs ooc is an easy win for Fuji though.
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Jan Anne the second photo that you posted is magnificent!
I wonder where you got that model ;D
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The AF 17-35 - Besterd-square -
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The upper deck control dials are fine but the buttons and directional pads are still very much like toys compared to the Dƒ's.
I know 'cause I've tried the switch twice. As for the files...yes, RAF's are good but the NEF's from the Dƒ are more flexible. JPEGs ooc is an easy win for Fuji though.
I will stay with Nikon for a while.
For the time being #1 reason is the NPS. Noone has is. Except Big C for Sports.
Image quality of D600 and experience with RAW conversion. Reason #2.
I feel very much at home there since 1988. #3
I am not sure that Gen5 might be another leap forward. This is wait and pray.
So.
The AF of the Oly plus IBIS
The ergonomics and lenses of the Fuji
The A7R2 but not the sytem and surely not the servive of Sony
they all do not cut it
an video? Hä? What? Need it?
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I hate it that Nikon gave up on Capture NX...
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I hate it that Nikon gave up on Capture NX...
So do I, processing the Df files with CNX2 made me feel at home straight away as I've used nothing else for years to process all my Nikon files. I'm a strong believer in a simple but capable first party raw editor, sadly Sony is not on par with CNX2 so I used CNX2 for the first few months to process Sony TIFF files :)
I have no experience with the CNX2 successor though, how does that compare to CNX2?
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Have I ever said that I love the 45P on the Df?
The Df is so much cooler with a pancake :)
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I don't care if you shot it with the 200 f/2, this is freaking awesome!
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That is the International Court of Justice, also known as the Peace Palace in the background.
Thanks Hans!
I did want to express the lovely bokeh of the 45P :)
And I am so sorry I don't have the 200/2 :'(
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I wanted to post these in Hans Cremers thread natural close-ups in an urban environment.
As you can see my photo are so blurry that nothing urban was visible so I decided to post them here since a Df was used :)
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I wanted to post these in Hans Cremers thread natural close-ups in an urban environment.
As you can see my photo are so blurry that nothing urban was visible so I decided to post them here since a Df was used :)
Doesn't matter in which post, Jakov. Lovely as always. I think you have a definite own style with these "out-of-focus" images. Great stuff.
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even I like it :)
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Thank you Hans so much. My ego says that it's nice to hear that I have a definite own style :)
Elsa, I knew that you would be seduced eventually :)
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Some uncropped handheld test-shots with the Nikkor AF 200 F/4 Micro
The bokeh of this lens is very special.
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Elsa, I knew that you would be seduced eventually :)
that's pushing it :)
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My update of the Df after 18 months of use the rear rubber of the righthand grip came off this weekend,
also the eye piece came off both on the same date both in august 2014 and 2015,
on these days lost and refound it a number of times,
magick :o
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5701/21278494319_08e3bff2e8_b.jpg)
nikkor 135mm f/2 with extension ring
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My update of the Df after 18 months of use the rear rubber of the righthand grip came off this weekend,
As mine did too !
Actually, it didn't come off, but just sliding toward right side, which is good news : At least, i do not lose it... :P
So, we have to find the right glue ! ;)
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the rubber sticks to the body by doubleside taped
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My update of the Df after 18 months of use the rear rubber of the righthand grip came off this weekend,
also the eye piece came off both on the same date both in august 2014 and 2015,
on these days lost and refound it a number of times,
magick :o
Same thing happened.. I do hold it for long times in hot summers ! I didn't loose it it just started slipping. The Nikon shop in Paris replaced it in a short time with a brand new one :-)
But I did have to get a new eye piece as I definitely lost it somewhere !
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last time it came off i took the rubber from the eyepiece and turned the piece even tighter, no problem since...
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Rubber and eyepiece are definitely a problem, albeit a mild one. Note that I use a DK-17M in addition. Fell twice on the (fortunately soft) ground, now I am careful and check its tightness.
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For a temporary reattachment of the rubber-like skin I'd use what in the USA is called "contact cement". The best brand in USA is Barge Cement. It is spread thinly on both surfaces while separate, allowed to "dry", then combined carefully. You only get one chance. Sticks together with mighty force. Nikon's replacement pieces probably come with peel-off backing adhesive already on.
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For a temporary reattachment of the rubber-like skin I'd use what in the USA is called "contact cement". The best brand in USA is Barge Cement. It is spread thinly on both surfaces while separate, allowed to "dry", then combined carefully. You only get one chance. Sticks together with mighty force. Nikon's replacement pieces probably come with peel-off backing adhesive already on.
Thanks for the tip, Keith ! ;)
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Image quality of Nikons 16MP FF sensor is stunning and clearly you folks using the Df belong to the more
experienced and thoughtful photography adepts. That clearly shows in the stunning footage. Esp Jakov. Thank you.
I still wish for a clean slate Nikon body. Possibly without mirror and even without rear screen just a Histogram checker
for full manual with light metering. Look at Leica the did a special edition of that kind and sold all for 15k Euro a pop
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Rubber and eyepiece are definitely a problem, albeit a mild one. Note that I use a DK-17M in addition. Fell twice on the (fortunately soft) ground, now I am careful and check its tightness.
i lost so many eye pieces starting with the FM2. The D3 has a good protection against loss though
Concerning the rubber rub off: This is an issue for Nikon for decades now. Some cameras have it some not.
I am sure Bjørn has a collection of documentary shots on loose rubber...
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I still wish for a clean slate Nikon body. Possibly without mirror and even without rear screen just a Histogram checker
for full manual with light metering. Look at Leica the did a special edition of that kind and sold all for 15k Euro a pop
There was talk and speculation about Nikon making a digital RF cam, along the lines of their Nikon SP Special Edition, back in 2007 when Nikon first delivered 24x36. At the time, Leica was still 2 years away from 24x36.
A dream camera. And, if Nikon made it, it'd be reliable and reasonably priced.
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Why not make someting stunning?
An affordable solution to all film experienced shooters?
Simple. No fuzz. Just like the old times. No Leica arrogance?
Something that binds us. Deeply so. To our brand?
It will not be our first Nikon.
It will not even be or tenth Nikon.
It will be Love.
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Has anyone used (or have available to test) the Yongnuo YN-622-TX (like a su-800) and the YN-622 receivers with the DF? I am getting the flash to trigger but mega under powered flash. It seems the DF shutter is firing late after the flash,miss that possible? Worse, the DF is snapping two frames. I have never seen this before and do not have bracket turned on. Yongnuo does not list the DF as compatible, but when I asked them they said they just never tested with the DF.
If I know someone has gotten it to work, I will keep trying!
Thanks,
Rob
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FrankF: "I am sure Bjørn has a collection of documentary shots on loose rubber..."
Saw that issue for the first time with the F5, then it followed predictably with all new models up to D2X. My D3/D3 never were troubled and so far the same applies for the various Df bodies. However, at the rate I'm killing them, certainly the least of my worries :D
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Has anyone used (or have available to test) the Yongnuo YN-622-TX (like a su-800) and the YN-622 receivers with the DF? I am getting the flash to trigger but mega under powered flash. It seems the DF shutter is firing late after the flash,miss that possible? Worse, the DF is snapping two frames. I have never seen this before and do not have bracket turned on. Yongnuo does not list the DF as compatible, but when I asked them they said they just never tested with the DF.
If I know someone has gotten it to work, I will keep trying!
More experimenting, the weird double shutter happens when the flash does not have enough power to get a good exposure (like I am shooting away from the flash field of light). When I shoot a more normal composition, only one shutter. But still a very odd experience that the flash somehow impacts the shutter release?
On the significant underexposing, I have now read that this is a known issue with these units in TTL mode, and adding 1.3 - 1.7 of flash exp is working for now.
I don't shoot a ton of flash, but want a reliable setup when needed.
As a side, I found some posts where people us the Yongnuo flash controller specifically for the AF Assist (red laser lights) to help the DF focus in low light.
Cheers,
Rob.
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There is one thing I noticed during our recent GetTogether in Germany about the Df and that I don't particularly like or understand.
If you use live view or if use the self-timer to trigger your shots you won't be able to shoot in multiple exposure mode.
It was pretty awkward to find something like that out in the middle of the night shooting the super moon.
Erik had the same difficulty with D3X as I remember, which means that this anomaly (if I can name it like that) is something that all Nikon DSLRs share.
I wonder why that is the case?
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Indeed - It's a 'Feature' of the D3X as well ::)
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This is just an observation, but I have noticed that on this site and that other place the Nikon Df is becoming the go to camera body for the manual focus enthusiasts. As I have handled the Df for only a few brief moments I consider myself not competent to be for or against this, so to those of us who like to do a bit of twiddling rock on chaps.
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There is one thing I noticed during our recent GetTogether in Germany about the Df and that I don't particularly like or understand.
If you use live view or if use the self-timer to trigger your shots you won't be able to shoot in multiple exposure mode.
It was pretty awkward to find something like that out in the middle of the night shooting the super moon.
Erik had the same difficulty with D3X as I remember, which means that this anomaly (if I can name it like that) is something that all Nikon DSLRs share.
I wonder why that is the case?
The D700 will allow multiple exposure with self-timer (I didn't test the live-view)
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There is one thing I noticed during our recent GetTogether in Germany about the Df and that I don't particularly like or understand.
If you use live view or if use the self-timer to trigger your shots you won't be able to shoot in multiple exposure mode.
It was pretty awkward to find something like that out in the middle of the night shooting the super moon.
Erik had the same difficulty with D3X as I remember, which means that this anomaly (if I can name it like that) is something that all Nikon DSLRs share.
I wonder why that is the case?
This feature is also avialable on the D7000. I thought that this was a "glitch" in the consumer range.
-frank-
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i lost so many eye pieces starting with the FM2. The D3 has a good protection against loss though
Concerning the rubber rub off: This is an issue for Nikon for decades now. Some cameras have it some not.
I am sure Bjørn has a collection of documentary shots on loose rubber...
My first Nikons, the F and FTn constantly lost the eyepiece rubber. I first experienced this phenomenon since ... (dare I say ...), the '60's. I found that third party eyecups lasted longer than Nikon.
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Love the Df's sensor and low light capacity.
And the older lenses who excel on the Df.
Here with the perfect 85K wide open at 32K iso.
'Tilia at night' - Part of a series 'Autumn in the City' but the City is hard to discover here ;)
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john those autumn colours are truly beautiful!
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A very nice picture of "autumn in the night"... :-)
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Thanks Elsa and Jacques.
After a foggy and sad morning the sun sneaks suddenly through the clouds covering the landscape with a yellow glow... The maize is still on the land and needs to be harvested.
Same lens but at F/4
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John, your images are full of emotion! Fantastic!
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Nice! I like the bicycle one... I wish the bike was just a bit further from the edge of the frame....
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Thanks Rob and Jakov.
This 'autumn' look is with the Nikkor K 28/2
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Great colors and bokeh of course. Are the 28/2 K and AI(S) similarly designed? I seem to recognize the somewhat nervous bokeh of the latter here.
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I believe the design of the 28/2 is similar but "With the AI-S version Nikon optical engineers managed to improved its closest focusing distance down to 0.25m (0.9ft)" which is a change of the lens, somehow.
Source: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/28mmnikkor/28mmf2.htm (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/28mmnikkor/28mmf2.htm)
I can't compare with the AI-S but I like the bokeh of the 28/2 (And different compared to the 28/1.8 G).
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Oops, the photo of the gate is with the 85K (Which explains the difference in bokeh then) I made a mistake by switching the two lenses as I used them in one shoot.
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Another evidence in favour of having all lenses CPU-modified :D No mistakes in identifying what lens was used ....
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Yes, you are right. The quality of the Df in combination with the older and beautiful Nikkor's makes it essential.
It has been an hectic year with a change of camera-body and purchase/sale of different lenses so I am getting slowly to a list of favorite lenses qualifying for conversion.
CPU-conversion can be easily done in combination with an Ai-conversion?
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If you attend the NG Scotland gathering next spring, we could set up a CPU modification shop right there.
Nearly all Nikkors can be modified, but the modification of some of them is not for the faint of heart. Which lenses did you have in mind?
I'll put up an announcement on the Classified board later. Meant to do that for a while now, but time has been hectic after the opening of this community.
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If you attend the NG Scotland gathering next spring, we could set up a CPU modification shop right there.
I am sure many attendants would be interested, including me ! ;D
I am going to wait the announcement knowing it's too early at the moment.
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I am sure many attendants would be interested, including me ! ;D
I am going to wait the announcement knowing it's too early at the moment.
Count me in. :)
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Seems like I will have to bring the tools... ;)
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Seems like I will have to bring the tools... ;)
Yes, please, Doctor ! ;D
Below, I mated the Helios 58mm f/2 (zeiss biotar copy) via M42 adapter to the df for flowers shots (and mushrooms as well)...
This lens gives a slight swirling bokeh to some pictures.
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...And mushrooms.
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Francis, these are my kind of photos, I love them!
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Below, I mated the Helios 58mm f/2 (zeiss biotar copy) via M42 adapter to the df for flowers shots (and mushrooms as well)...
This lens gives a slight swirling bokeh to some pictures.
Did you use extension tubes also?
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Thank you Jakov ! I am glad you love them. ;)
Did you use extension tubes also?
No extension tube, but the mount adapter M42 to F mount is itself an extension since the lens is kept away from the body.
Even if you hold the lens against the body mount, you don't get sharp infinity. (infinity is blurry at full aperture)
By the way, I can't get infinity with this lens on the Sony Next nether, which I thought it was designated to accept any M42 mount lenses.
However, if I slow down its aperture, eventually I can hardly see infinity, which means the M42/Sony adapter is 1 or 2mm too thick. ::)
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You might have the T/T2 adapter instead of the M42? It's a tad longer.
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You might have the T/T2 adapter instead of the M42? It's a tad longer.
You are just right, Bjørn !
It's the T2 adapter I use for the Df.
I didn't know the difference, but as the threads fit M42, I started to use it.
I'm going to order a M42 ring now. ;D
Cheers, Francis.
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You aren't the first to be confused by T2 vs M42 and unfortunately, likely not the last one either.
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Great photos Francis - also my kind of shot.
I've got the tiniest M42 to Nikon F adaptors I could get hold of but never could focus any further than about 4m. It was one of the reasons which 'helped' convince me to try the A7II.
I've got a FOTGA M42 adaptor for the Sony but it may be a touch too short as the infinity focus is a fair way from the infinity stop on the lens. I've got a Novoflex coming soon which may allow hard stop infinity to be at infinity.
Here's Pentax SMC 50mm1.4 M42 on Df. Although I'm having a lot of fun with the Sony, my heart belongs to Df...
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True M42 lenses are not expected to go to infinity on any Nikon (D)SLR. Their register distance is 1 mm short of the Nikon F mount. You sometimes see adapters with a "correction" lens built-in to restore infinity. Usually these optics are awful and should be shunned.
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M42 and T2 have different thread pitch, so i wonder how hard your threads fitted :D
there are many modification instructions floating in the web about getting infinity for a Helios on Nikon,
i have never had one of these modified lenses in my hands, so i cannot comment on them
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Great photos Francis - also my kind of shot.
Thanks for commenting.
The Sony nex 5 is indeed a good camera, but so difficult too use for me, as the ergonomics/interface are so different. I actually bought it to minimize any vibrations due to the mirror in close-up work.
Electronic shutter helps too in this matter. And the pivoting screen is really useful for mushrooms shots.
Despite these advantages, I am still somehow reluctant to use it.
M42 and T2 have different thread pitch, so i wonder how hard your threads fitted :D
Not hard at all, just a very light play which disappears when you tighten the lens. ;)
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You might have the T/T2 adapter instead of the M42? It's a tad longer.
What's a T or T2 adapter?
It's for telescopes?
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T-Mount or T2 was an early interchangable mount system to connect lenses to different camera bodies.
Wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-mount (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-mount)
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T-Mount or T2 was an early interchangable mount system to connect lenses to different camera bodies.
Wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-mount (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-mount)
Interesting. A Tamron invention. T-2 was the Soligor version.
There is so much I don't know; but now a little less. Thanks!
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Just received the M42/Fmount today.
I was quite optimist when I said there is only 1 or 2 mm difference of thickness : there is actually 7 mm !
So, we can state that the T/T2 ring is a true 10mm extension ring... :D
Will try the M42 adapter tomorrow, if the weather is not too awful.
One more image with the Helios 58mm f/2.
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I truly fall for these images :)
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I truly fall for these images :)
Thanks again, Jakov !
This last one posted was one of the first taken when I received this lens from Ukraine. ;)
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Some quick ones with the "new" 50mm f/1.4 S-C, 1972 vintage, wide open on a PK-13 ring, more to follow when the weather improves!
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Beautiful John. It's a different lens than the AI and later models (the samples of AI/AIS I had were not very impressive).
Especially the center-sharpness is noticeable on the Pre-Ai versions. (and 'wild' bokeh and some nice vignetting as well) ;) I have the Nikkor S-Auto from 1968
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Nice JG, and they look so right on the DF, bonus!
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What the difference between the nikkor 50mm f/1,4 s-auto or s.c.-auto, coatings?
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Yes, the S-C is multi-coated, gives a nice magenta sheen to the front element
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The blue and yellow photo posted by John Harkus in #184 is great!
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Some more from the "new" 50mm f/1.4 S-C this morning, bitingly sharp from f/2.8, and quite interesting at f/1.4. Not much I could do about the flat light though :(
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The little Df, although with the old 24-70, allowed a quick and quiet snap of this gentleman relaxing inside the National Building Museum, Washington DC.
iso 400, 1/30s, f4 @29mm.
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Am going to holiday party tonight with the Df and a couple of primes -24,50 and 85.
Sometimes I've had trouble with low light focus, any tips?
I tend to shoot pretty open at dark events maybe f2.2?
I read about using the red focus aid on an SB-700 but not sure I want to.
My MF skills are not up to par I don't think (or at least my confidence at such)
Thanks
Rob
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Rob, the other night Chris Dees and I were testing his Df against mine.
Chris has all the 1.4 lenses, but we concentrated on my Df and the 24/1.4.
Chris' Df did just fine with my 24/1.4.
Mine was horrible.
Chris had to set my AF fine tune Df default at -20, and additionally he set the lens to -20 and only then the lens was sharp.
Subsequently I sent my Df to NPS for servicing. It cannot be normal to push the AF fine tune to its maximum.
So I suggest you fine tune the DF and the lenses prior to the party.
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So I suggest you fine tune the DF and the lenses prior to the party.
A good practice for sure... for my lenses for tonight, I don't have any concerns (i.e. have great results in normal lighting conditions), but I have only briefly done the fine tuning before.
Any thoughts on low light auto-focus?
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Rob, I'm afraid that this is too late for the party tonight, but if you have an access to the official Nikon service, I would strongly recommend you to have your camera and lenses calibrated there. This is more thorough calibration on the firmware level than the AF fine tuning in the camera menu. I had my D7000, whose AF unit is essentially the same as that of Df, calibrated at Nikon service in Tokyo, which made significant difference.
Having said that, the AF of fast Nikon lenses are not particularly brisk, even in good light. So, you would have to live with that.
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Rob, I'm afraid that this is too late for the party tonight, but if you have an access to the official Nikon service, I would strongly recommend you to have your camera and lenses calibrated there. This is more thorough calibration on the firmware level than the AF fine tuning in the camera menu. I had my D7000, whose AF unit is essentially the same as that of Df, calibrated at Nikon service in Tokyo, which made significant difference.
Having said that, the AF of fast Nikon lenses are not particularly brisk, even in good light. So, you would have to live with that.
Good to know!
With the 50 1.8 then, should I stop down to 3.2 or 4, does that impact AF ability?
Mainly I want to avoid "hunting"
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Good to know!
With the 50 1.8 then, should I stop down to 3.2 or 4, does that impact AF ability?
Mainly I want to avoid "hunting"
You mean, you half-press the shutter button while pushing the stop-down button? Maybe the AF wouldn't work if you push the stop-down button. Even if it would work, the AF would struggle more, because the amount of the light is reduced.
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Stop down aperture... from f1.8 to f2.2 or f2.8, i wasn't sure if aperture would impact Autofocus in dark rooms.
Thanks,
Rob.
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In my experience the Df is not the best tool for low light AF.
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Hm. I have used 24/1.4 with the Df under extremely low-light situations where I could have sworn it would never find focus. But it did.
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Like all Nikons, you disrupt automated functionality by manually stopping down the lens on a Df.
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In my experience the Df is not the best tool for low light AF.
What is the best in your experience ? D750 ? D810 ?
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What is the best in your experience ? D750 ? D810 ?
I haven't used D750 or D810.
Perhaps I am not being just to the Df because I am comparing it to a D4.
As soon as my Df comes back for the Nikon Service Point, I will give it a go again and share my thoughts.
I am not saying that every Df is poor in low-light. Chris Dees Df worked just fine and Bjørn states that his Df has no issue.
I never had focussing issues with any Nikon camera in low light and that includes D70.
So I guess the D750 and D810 are good low light performers.
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What is the best in your experience ? D750 ? D810 ?
According to the specs the D750 is. -3EV against -2EV (as is the Df)
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No issue's with my Df as well. But with regard to a AF-system in low light; how can the 'system' see things if the human eye can't see it? ;) By the way, I prefer manual focus in low light situations, even with AF-lenses.
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I started the low light messages above... I got some good, not great pictures. I spent more time enjoying the party vs taking pictures, but got maybe 40 good event shots. One portrait attached.
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The Df and the back focus issue. At least I see some back focus here.
I have to state that I did send my Df for servicing and it came back from suffering of mirror misalignment :)
I was suffering for almost two years (and i wonder why my photos are all blurry).
Curious to hear your thoughts, or to see other results.
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Never assume a product is perfect. Test it. Understand the need for service and maintenance.
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From memory with my then D810 and my now Df and D750 I'd say wt. low light AF they perform best to good: D750-D810-Df.
The incandescent AF performance is a known issue and my work-around is to learn the camera's behavior and dial in the necessary AF adjustment.
I recently shot thousands of images during 7 dance performances and the lighting was from hell: Incandescent, fluorescent, LED, HID, HMI and what have you. I spent quite some time figuring out the best (not perfect) AF adjustment.
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The Df and the back focus issue. At least I see some back focus here.
I have to state that I did send my Df for servicing and it came back from suffering of mirror misalignment :)
I was suffering for almost two years (and i wonder why my photos are all blurry).
Curious to hear your thoughts, or to see other results.
By back focus, you mean his bow tie is sharper than his eye? I agree. I double checked the focus point and it is right on his eye (to our right). I often get great results, so I'm not sure if in this case it is back focus, him moving, me moving, low light missed focus. The lens is the kit 50 1.8 G, ISO 3200, f1.8, 1/100. Is the Df known for back focus overall or in low light? I have not fine adjusted this lens either.
Sending in for adjustments and maintenance intrigues me but also scares me. I'll look for other pictures from the night.
EDIT: Here is one more, I think the focus is on target on this one.
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Reliable AF in any light condition, not only the low one, is a combination of user skill and understanding, AF technology of camera and lens, and any possible misalignment of camera, lens, or user. No chain is stronger than the weakest link.
"Back (or front) focus" does occur, but perhaps far less frequent than most users tend to believe. One has to acknowledge that the camera's AF system has no understanding of "sharpness" in the way the human mind works, it can only maximise criteria of a given model. Thus, the camera cannot know that you intend only a small portion of the area covered by the AF sensor to be sharp ... so it maximises variance and puts the focus plane behind that small point because the entire AF-covered area according to its model now is "sharper". Just to take a common situation where we expect the camera to think like we do. It does not.
On a general yet related note, try working with AF *only* put to the AF-ON button of your camera. I prefer AF-C mode, but this has more a bearing on how you operate the AF-ON control thus any AF mode will work in practice. This approach provides much more control over what happens when you compose then push the release button.
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I noted somewhere in this long running thread a problem loose rubber coverings. What a camera repairman friend used and what was the smell of a new Nikon years ago was PLIOBOND...
http://0363d88.netsolhost.com/WordPress/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Pliobond-info-sheet.pdf
It bonds to many materials and it can be pealed off where other contact cements don't allow this. It can also be reactivated with MEK so as not to thicken the layer of adhesive under the covering. Whether it's the right adhesive to use on modern DSLR I'm not sure but I would not what to use a more permanent adhesive that might interfere with a repair.
Dave
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Thanks for the info and link!
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For what it's worth: none of my Df bodies has had the "loose rubber" syndrome. I have owned and used Df cameras since 2013.
Knocks and bumps represent a much more grave threat to this camera ... I have killed one already ... Oh well, that's life as a photographer in a nutshell.
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Loosening rubber is mostly due to heat in combination with a sideways tearing, I think...
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On a general yet related note, try working with AF *only* put to the AF-ON button of your camera. I prefer AF-C mode, but this has more a bearing on how you operate the AF-ON control thus any AF mode will work in practice. This approach provides much more control over what happens when you compose then push the release button.
I've followed that NG advice for a long time now (2010 I guess) and there's no way back. Indeed, it is extremely useful when AF-C is often needed. Minor rant : when framing vertically, it is difficult (not: impossible) to keep fingers on AF-ON and shutter release simultaneously when the buttons are at the bottom, i.e. thumb on AF-ON and index. Having the controlling hand at the top is more comfortable, but I hate to raise my arm that high, especially if shooting in streets.
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First off, you folk have displayed some terrific photographs from your Dfs. I just joined up (after 8 years at the previous incarnation) and see an awful lot of familiar names - I missed you these last few months.
After 2¼ years my Df has proven to be a most faithful companion. Here are a few that came out well.
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Really like #2 and ##5 and 6. The reflction shot took me a few moments to figure out and pictures that make me look twice is my favorites. The df sure is a nice walkaround camera :) Your motto "Frequently wrong, seldom in doubt" made me smile. It pretty much sums up what I learned during my lifetime ;D
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Lorne, just like Børge I like the reflection with the red leafs a lot. But I also like the water the drop with the flowers in the background and the minimalist field with the cotton clouds floating above.
I hope that you will be frequently posting more images and not seldom :)
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A little morsel of information re the 'read leaves'. They are in reality masses of the minute floating aquatic fern Azolla. These small plants are free-floating, not rooted, and capable of very rapid proliferation in conducive habitats.
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Thanks for the welcome over in the introductions thread. Since returning, the Df Revival thread seemed the place to start. It only seems fair to share some of shots taken using what I learned from that old thread. A shot and full crop of a Tundra Swan. It was taken using my 80-400, but I have my manual lens bag pulled together finally, and will be shooting it more this spring. Comments are welcome. Thanks for the thread, it's been a good read so far.
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First off, you folk have displayed some terrific photographs from your Dfs. I just joined up (after 8 years at the previous incarnation) and see an awful lot of familiar names - I missed you these last few months.
After 2¼ years my Df has proven to be a most faithful companion. Here are a few that came out well.
Yeh, yeh...nottin' less terrific shot presented by you here. I like them all.
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I agree. Great shots.
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Lorne: Great to have you back! Continue to inspire us with shota loke these!
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I bought my Nikon Df with 50/1.8 the first weekend that it was available, bought from a local camera shop on "Small Business Saturday". I love it. Just perfect for me. Learned the Menu system enough to configure it the way I want the first week of owning, use dials and buttons after that. Menu gets used to Format cards and setup manual focus lenses.
Nikkor-O 35/2 Factory Ai'd, wide-open, 1/30th second, ISO 12,800.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7402/13984573622_bf23006639_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/niLAwj)Luray Caverns (https://flic.kr/p/niLAwj) by fiftyonepointsix (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90768661@N02/), on Flickr
Black Bears in Caves at Midnight, in focus.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7570/16126076040_121466cb6b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qz1mzN)Festival of Lights (https://flic.kr/p/qz1mzN) by fiftyonepointsix (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90768661@N02/), on Flickr
35/2 at F2.8, 1/40th, ISO 6400.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5799/23544821746_7a84cea2a2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BSzndw)DSC_7738 (https://flic.kr/p/BSzndw) by fiftyonepointsix (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90768661@N02/), on Flickr
Nikkor 85/2 Ais, at F4.
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The arrival of the Df for me was the final push to have all my manual F-mount lenses modified with a CPU. I didn't want to fiddle with a control on front of the camera when I could work the natural way rotating an aperture collar on the lens.
I'm happy that the project now is completed. Never counted how many they are, but must be well above one hundred.
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I'm happy that the project now is completed. Never counted how many they are, but must be well above one hundred.
I have found the right place to be. I have 80 lenses (15 Nikkors) in Leica mount, about the same in f-Mount.
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Sorry if this question has been asked. Do you guys think that the focusing screen from the FM3A or F6 will fit the Df? Thanks :o :o :o
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I purchased an K-3 screen for my Df from www.focusingscreen.com. Apparently this is from FM3a, but they probably did some tweaking on it to make it fit. The screen works splendidly, by the way.
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I purchased an K-3 screen for my Df from www.focusingscreen.com. Apparently this is from FM3a, but they probably did some tweaking on it to make it fit. The screen works splendidly, by the way.
Thank you for the confirmation. I wonder how different it would be :o :o :o
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Any trouble with mounting and (heaven forbid) adjusting ?
I did that with my canon T90 back in the eighties, an easy job, but the screen was replaceable "by design".
On their catalogue, they have uniform matte "S type" (my preference, since I dislike the disturbance brought to the field view by the microprisms etc.). I'd even prefer matte with grid, but they do not seem to propose grids at all.
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I don't see any sense to replace the default screen of Df with yet another matte? I realize that Df with the default screen is noticeably more comfortable to focus manually even with Ais 50/1.2 than D750. And you can use the on-screen grid. Is the replacement coarser than the original?
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I handed the camera over to my Nikon contacts at the national repair facility and they fixed the installation while I had a nice cup of coffee.
There are advantages and drawbacks to a split-image finder, like with any other screen. As I have used similar screens frequently in the older days of the film era, the split image didn't disturb me at all. It certainly helps me acquire pin-point focus with a wide range of lenses in poor light. The K-3 has a collar of microprisms surrounding the central split image and these microprisms assist focusing as well.
Asking price for the modified K-3 was not too bad and the added benefits are more than worth the price I paid. The supplier shipped the modified K-3 rapidly as well.
The K-3 overall is slightly coarser than the stock screen, but not dramatically different. It is just even more precise when one wants to focus bright lenses.
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I have also replaced the focusing screen of my Df with a K-3 from focusingscreen.com. I have found them reliable, with a fast delivery. I initially intended to replace the screen myself, based on my experience with Canon bodies (EoS 1V and 6D), but I found it much more difficult. Before breaking something I went to a small photo repair shop in Paris who services my film cameras, and they were happy to do it for a small fee.
As regards usage, I prefer to use manual focus anyway, so a split-screen really makes a difference to me.
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I am contemplating on the FM3A or F6 screens :o :o :o
I want the K!!!
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currently having a gout attack, if i can manage to walk to the camera shop later, I will get myself an FM3A screen and see what I can do to make it fit. :o :o :o
(http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/images.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/image/ra183/users/4/2/4/7/nikon_df_goods-img600x384-14678966471467896647.770710008ff2xpb10008.jpg)
By the way, was contemplating to DIY something like this but found out that the person selling this is a bar buddy. Might get one
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.......
I didn't want to fiddle with a control on front of the camera when I could work the natural way rotating an aperture collar on the lens.
......
Last weekend I used my Df with an AF-lens and it took me some time to figure out how to adjust the aperture. One get used to it quite easily. ;D
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Success :o :o :o
Sort off... ::)
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Any trouble with mounting and (heaven forbid) adjusting ?
No problem. I did it. If I can do it everyone can. Thats a fact!
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currently having a gout attack, if i can manage to walk to the camera shop later, I will get myself an FM3A screen and see what I can do to make it fit. :o :o :o
(http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/images.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/image/ra183/users/4/2/4/7/nikon_df_goods-img600x384-14678966471467896647.770710008ff2xpb10008.jpg)
By the way, was contemplating to DIY something like this but found out that the person selling this is a bar buddy. Might get one
Hi,
würde Can i purchase this knob?
Harald
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Yes, a one-finger solution can be welcomed.
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hey, guys. the switch can be purchased from Yahoo! Auctions. if you guys want to, I can talk to the guy who makes them and maybe get discount if we pool up. It is not cheap because it is small volume order. I believe that it is being sold for $90 each. :o :o :o that is the reason why I wanted to make one myself but since the guy selling and making these is a bar buddy, i thought that it would be better to just support him ::) friendship is more important than money most of the time!
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I do not use the off/on button that frequently... But:
- auto ISO on/off : I use the button below DOF preview
- Exposure compensation : left hand only, but I have to move it from the lens, so it works only with light lenses. Annoying.
- switch between manual and aperture only (I never use S nor P) : right hand only, but the two-axis movement plus the risk to get to the S or P positions is annoying too.
I'd like to reprogram the front wheel to exp comp or P/A/S/M, since it is very stiff and never gets moved accidentally. Wait, is that possible... let me check...
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hey, guys. the switch can be purchased from Yahoo! Auctions. if you guys want to, I can talk to the guy who makes them and maybe get discount if we pool up. It is not cheap because it is small volume order. I believe that it is being sold for $90 each. :o :o :o that is the reason why I wanted to make one myself but since the guy selling and making these is a bar buddy, i thought that it would be better to just support him ::) friendship is more important than money most of the time!
Im in for such a knob. When I see the simple solution, I wish I could 3d print. ::)
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If you are as brave and dexterous as Erik, our lens doctor, you could drill a hole into the switch surrounding the release button, tap it and screw an allen screw of appropriate size.
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you could drill a hole into the switch surrounding the release button, tap it and screw an allen screw of appropriate size.
there is a non-destructive way of doing this without hurting the resale using plastic bushings from Tokyu Hands :o :o :o
the Df club exhibit in Fujiya in Nakano will last until tomorrow. ::) I just met and talk to one of the engineers of the Df this afternoon unfortunately did not talk much because my foot is painful because of 痛風！!
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Im in for such a knob. When I see the simple solution, I wish I could 3d print. ::)
I was thinking of this initially but I thought that I will just support him by buying his product. he also has one for the front dial wherein you insert a metal ring over the almost useless crown of the dial :o :o :o
i seldom use it so it's OK ::)
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So far, my K screen still stayed in place. :o :o :o
setting the AF mode to manual mode helped a lot by hiding the pesky focus point out of view. now, i have 2 levels of focus confirmation! the prism helps with rough focusing while the dot helps with fine focusing
I will use the camera all day tomorrow in Kichijoji and see if it's still OK by the end of the day ::)
Can I ask a favour? if anybody has the F100 or the F6, is it OK to get the dimensions in mm of the long edge of the finder screen? It should say 39mm or greater.
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Rick, sorry about your 痛風(gout)...
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Rick, sorry about your 痛風(gout)...
I feel a lot better now, thank you :o :o :o
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https://richardhaw.com/2016/09/11/mod-nikon-df-split-prism/
OK, here is how I modified my Df :o :o :o
oh,yes...I am now a happier person with the Df ::)
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Wow, it Works fine? So i will have a look for this Screen. :)
Harald
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so far so good :o :o :o
going to test it with the NOCT later ::)
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Hi,Rick,I feel your pain,I got the right toe.
As for your Df focus screen mod,seems not safe stay in place for me,I mod my Df with F3 screen (G2),pretty much same size of FM3a,I add 2 little plastic on both sides with crazy glue,I feel more secure,FYI.
The metal spring not pressure on both sides of screen.
Lloyd
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Hi,Rick,I feel your pain,I got the right toe.
As for your Df focus screen mod,seems not safe stay in place for me,I mod my Df with F3 screen (G2),pretty much same size of FM3a,I add 2 little plastic on both sides with crazy glue,I feel more secure,FYI.
The metal spring not pressure on both sides of screen.
Lloyd
My left toe is not as painful now. i have strong medicine :o :o :o
I was preparing to add some acrylic on the side but i was surprised the FM3A screen worked without a problem. how is the viewport? is the F3 screen darker? Ric.
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No problem with F3 screen on Df,seems the same bright,it depend the type,my G2 become tunnel view on the 20mm,my prefer on the 105mm, had more type to choose for what you prefer.LLoyd
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Lloyd, I take it that you extracted the acrylic F3 screen from the metal frame and condenser lens that it came in?
Welcome to Nikongear Revival, by the way.
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Yes.and the wider length side need sand paper work till it fit the reading,then you have the screen you want.Lloyd
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I was thinking of this initially but I thought that I will just support him by buying his product. he also has one for the front dial wherein you insert a metal ring over the almost useless crown of the dial :o :o :o
i seldom use it so it's OK ::)
Could you provide a link or a website where one could order. Hope your goat feel better ;D
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Could you provide a link or a website where one could order. Hope your goat feel better ;D
Thanks! gout feels a lot better. Going to the Tokyo Game Show tomorrow in fact (work).
The same seller sells the dial upgrade as well :o :o :o
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Yes.and the wider length side need sand paper work till it fit the reading,then you have the screen you want.Lloyd
Lloyd, for the benefit of the many I would like to ask your permission to add your info into my blog. :o :o :o
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Sure,I would like to say thank.Lloyd
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Hi Richard, I have checked an F100, FM3a (or is it an FE3m? ;D), and an FM2T and measured the widths and depths of their screens with a digital calipers.
Sorry that it has taken me so long, but the F100 was in storage and my hands have been sidelined somewhat with arthritis. Getting old has its downsides I am discovering. (LOL). Hope your gout is starting to go away - I can appreciate what it is like.
Camera Width (mm) Depth (mm)
F100 36.6 25.1
FM3a 36.8 24.8
FM2T 36.8 24.8
Apparently the digital D1 body shares the same screens as for the film F100. None are as wide as the 39mm of your Df (I have not checked mine - can do I guess.
Not much difference between these three. I have a Df and will get a screen from the Taiwanese company whose link (http://www.focusingscreen.com/) that you have posted (and also from nfoto if IIRC).
So far, my K screen still stayed in place. :o :o :o
setting the AF mode to manual mode helped a lot by hiding the pesky focus point out of view. now, i have 2 levels of focus confirmation! the prism helps with rough focusing while the dot helps with fine focusing
I will use the camera all day tomorrow in Kichijoji and see if it's still OK by the end of the day ::)
Can I ask a favour? if anybody has the F100 or the F6, is it OK to get the dimensions in mm of the long edge of the finder screen? It should say 39mm or greater.
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Could you provide a link or a website where one could order. Hope your goat feel better ;D
http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h203266377
Here it is. Foot is so much better now. these usually do not last more than a week. I am just 40 but I feel like I am 60 :o :o :o
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Sure,I would like to say thank.Lloyd
I added your information and pics on the site. Thank you very much :o :o :o
how is the screen?
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Hi Richard, I have checked an F100, FM3a (or is it an FE3m? ;D), and an FM2T and measured the widths and depths of their screens with a digital calipers.
Sorry that it has taken me so long, but the F100 was in storage and my hands have been sidelined somewhat with arthritis. Getting old has its downsides I am discovering. (LOL). Hope your gout is starting to go away - I can appreciate what it is like.
Camera Width (mm) Depth (mm)
F100 36.6 25.1
FM3a 36.8 24.8
FM2T 36.8 24.8
Apparently the digital D1 body shares the same screens as for the film F100. None are as wide as the 39mm of your Df (I have not checked mine - can do I guess.
Not much difference between these three. I have a Df and will get a screen from the Taiwanese company whose link (http://www.focusingscreen.com/) that you have posted (and also from nfoto if IIRC).
I have added this super useful table to the site. I am going to buy an old F6 screen, maybe later :o :o :o
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Hi,Ric文榮,thanks for your hard work for the site.
Yes,the G2 is my perfect screen now,it works very good from 35mm to 200mm (prime),and I like the whole 12mm center circle
micro prism is manual focus aid and the green dot second backup,for wide angle from 28mm and wider,it show dark circle around
but the center circle still useable for focus till 20mm,not good for composition,I had the P,seems like the K,but the split is 45 degree
slant,confuse the spot metering some time,also had the H2,whole screen is micro prism,made me dizzy cause the whole view in and out focus at the same time,but the G2 let you see the composition clear since the center change in focus.Lloyd禮
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While watching for rumours of a Df2 I ran across this on another forum. Not sure where to post but interesting read .
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdc.watch.impress.co.jp%2Fdocs%2Fnews%2Finterview%2F626315.html
Many here may have seen it but it was new to me. Df continues to be the camera I grab first and use the most.
Cheers,
Tom
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Interesting, despite the hilarious shortcomings of Google Translate (that does not translate to the end; I'll have another try).
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Richard, I have the E3 screen in my FM3a and a spare Beattie screen similar to the K3, but with grid rulings. I am tempted to try this in my Df, hence my R&D.
The FM3a handbook on Page 47 makes the following comment about focus screen interchangeability between the FM3a and the older FE2 and FM2n (1/250th flash sync) cameras:
"K2, B2, and E2 types for the FE2 or the New FM2 (the latest version with 1/250th sec flash sync) can be used with this camera (i.e. the FM3a) without exposure compensation. K3, B3, and E3 type for this camera (i.e. the FM3a) can be used with an FE2 or New FM2 camera, no compensation required."
So they are interchangeable. Subjectively the K3, B3, and E3 types look a little brighter to me than the K2, B2, and E2 types, but obviously the metering is unaffected according to Nikon.
Pages 46 & 47 from the FM3a manual are attached.
EDIT: Also similar pages for the FM2n and the F100 film cameras. Nothing about screen changing is mentioned in the manuals for the D200, D700, D810, or the Df. Have not looked for the D* series of cameras. The subtle differences between the tabs on the K, K2, and K3 screens can be found in these pdfs; ditto for the tabs on the B and E type screens.
I have added this super useful table to the site. I am going to buy an old F6 screen, maybe later :o :o :o
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I haven't seen aerial photos here, I think. The Df is the goto for night aerials. D810 is great (unbeatable in daylight) but its resolution is nullified by the necessary use of formerly unusable ISOs (!). This is a JPG from the camera with no massaging, the local fireworks competition on the Ottawa River. Auto ISO and the kit 50mm work well. I was using MANUAL this time but I often use P just to irritate people.
This is Netherlands show (can't you tell?). Australia won, hands down, inside the first 5 shells if anyone wants to know.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8407/29448031881_2614ad3769_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LSdRVB)
_DF08811 (https://flic.kr/p/LSdRVB) by Chuck Clark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/), on Flickr
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Chuck, that's super good.
Would love to see more if you have in P mode or any other :)
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I like mostly-oof shots and your 24/1.4 shots are nice. But fast wide angles are harder to focus with the stock focusing screen. I installed a precision matte Canon type S one and life gets easier with fast lenses.
Did you have to file away parts of the Canon type S screen, and do any adjustments? And pardon my ignorance in Canon system, haven't handled one since 1982, this is the Canon Type S screen for which camera?
Many thanks in advance.
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I branded some of these for some reason. There's a little more light to work with in winter, but not much. 22 years ago I was using an FE2 and 20 rolls of whatever-it-was chrome plus sometimes a 180 2.8 WITH NO INFINITY STOP. 3500' is close enough to infinite. "Stop here while I reload." is not an option in a Cessna 172. What a pain. No chance at all of night work and day was a big event. Now it's a (literally) simple matter of finding a night rated pilot (there are 7 instructors worth of them at the Rockcliffe flying club), $150 for an hour in the plane and off you go. Equipment is not something one even has to think hard about, at least not with D810 and Df.
First one is of both Canada's spy headquarters. I call them Spook Centrals. Hi, guys. It's notable that the new one, in the foreground, is officially called the "Drake Building"!!!!
Second is downtown all lit up at Christmas. I live in this one.
Third is the inevitable winter city Winter Carnival. The oval is a pleasure skating rink, right beside the frozen Rideau Canal 15km skateway. We have a lot of rinks in town.
Last one is stitched, winter really helps this view.
The common caveat applies concerning artistic quality...etc, my pictures are here merely to show how easy it is to get a good shot in what used to be a difficult to impossible situation.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5482/12489343515_591a7d5045_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/k2D9GT)
ottawa 1533 (https://flic.kr/p/k2D9GT) by Chuck Clark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/), on Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/2/1603/24174661396_dd7ea20cb6_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CQesAQ)
night_DF07853 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/CQesAQ) by Chuck Clark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/), on Flickr
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/3/2871/12509756795_6152ca4a76_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/k4rLRZ)
winterlude 1346 (https://flic.kr/p/k4rLRZ) by Chuck Clark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/), on Flickr
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5488/12526311093_a56d6a54b4_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/k5UBSV)
evening aerial photography with the Df (https://flic.kr/p/k5UBSV) by Chuck Clark (https://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/), on Flickr
CWC
Chuck, that's super good.
Would love to see more if you have in P mode or any other :)
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I love your pictures Chuck! The Df is a really an outstanding camera. If I had to choose one camera, I would not doubt to pick the Df :)
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Sadly, my Df needs its own revival as the shutter appears to have failed. I contacted Nikon Canada and they quoted me $375 for its replacement - not as bad as I feared. The failure occurred during a time-lapse sequence, but I just assumed the battery was drained. Today I saw the dreaded Err on the display, and soon found that the Df was no lunger functional. Here are the last two shots of the sequence.
My old D200 and V1 will have to fill in till the Df is repaired.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5326/31378858055_2b578ff76b_o.jpg)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5736/31342634306_c2dc90e5db_o.jpg)
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that seems a bit too expensive for a shutter replacement. :o :o :o
the shutter assembly itself is cheap. try sending that to Nikon SG,TW,HK,TH if you have friends there.
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My Nikon Df arrived back at noon today. It survived the journey intact, the box was undamaged and more importantly the camera is perfectly fine.
All the menus had been reset to factory defaults so I’ve spent awhile inputting my choices.
The shutter count was reset as part of the repair. The last frame before failure was 27,934, the first frame I shot on it’s return was 125. Obviously, testing the repair used up a few frames, and cleaning the sensor afterwords probably added to the count. Fwiw, the first shot I took after buying the Df new in Dec. 2013 was 303.
Nikon Canada charged me Cdn$442.39 for the repair, or about US$335 / €315 / £270.
edit: I kick myself for not asking Nikon to return the failed shutter. It would have been a nice memento.
Lorne
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Some rumours about the new Df http://nikonrumors.com/2017/01/12/rumors-from-japanese-magazine-nikon-df2-to-be-based-on-the-d750-24mp-sensor.aspx/
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Now you know why I bought a D750 after using the Df :D
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;) Logically the use of the D5 sensor would be more appropriate for a Df2, I hope.
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If the D5 sensor can be configured so the low ISO dynamic range is improved (lower frame rate - lower read speed - better control of noise) then it would be a good candidate for the Df2. Otherwise, the sensor used on the D750 is an excellent all-round performer - large dynamic range at low ISO and good performance at high ISO.
On the other hand, the D750 sensor is basically the same as used originally on the D600 which was already available before the Df came to market. It seems a little strange to use a relatively old sensor for the Df2 when it wasn't used used for its predecessor (unless the design of the Df using the D4 sensor was already locked in much earlier)
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A sturdier outer shell and less fragile control buttons are my premier wish for a Df2. Ideally, a shell of titan would be a dream come true.
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Rumor has it that the 100th anniversary Df shall be in Titan - fingers crossed
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A sturdier outer shell and less fragile control buttons are my premier wish for a Df2. Ideally, a shell of titan would be a dream come true.
Agreed, or +1 in new internet language.
My panda is showing some heavy wear on the metal coated plastic parts.
Also an improved front wheel - it's not easy feasible in cold and wet conditions in the actual incarnation.
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My Nikon Df arrived back at noon today. It survived the journey intact, the box was undamaged and more importantly the camera is perfectly fine.
All the menus had been reset to factory defaults so I’ve spent awhile inputting my choices.
I'd be curious what you (or others) change in the menus. To be honest, I don't have mine written down so i don't know that I could recreate my current setup.
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Agreed, or +1 in new internet language.
My panda is showing some heavy wear on the metal coated plastic parts.
Also an improved front wheel - it's not easy feasible in cold and wet conditions in the actual incarnation.
Oh yes. Titan version would be great. My greatest annoyance is the lock on the ISO-wheel. When looking through the viewfinder it's hard to change the ISO settings. But that's perhaps a very personal thing ;)
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Personally I find the locks very nice. Nothing moves out of position unless you wish to. I rarely change ISO anyway.
Auto-ISO could help in the case you describe?
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Oh yes. Most of the times, in daily action, Auto-ISO is the convenient way and that works pretty good.
But with completely manual operation and a desired fixed shutter time and aperture (Especially with fixed aperture lenses) ISO is the key to the correct exposure.
It's not a big thing, but I get annoyed removing my eye from the viewfinder to find the correct lock-button, as I tend to switch it with the exposure-compensation lock ;)
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I find the locks easy to deal with too. Put thumb on button, use first finger to rotate dial.
Mostly though I just set mode to M, set aperture and shutter speed where I want and let auto-ISO take up the slack. I do adjust exposure compensation frequently for different lighting when it is necessary.
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My only real complaints of the Df , and D750, are the focus point coverage and 1/4000. Some minor gripes with the front wheel and no AF assist light. I much prefer the Df sensor to the D750. After using EM1 and a7rii for some time I really like the wide spread of focus points for composition. Cannot afford a D5 but I am enjoying the D500 but do not need the speeds for the Df both in fps nor AF. I can easily live with the current sensor but little chance of that. I am in the wait and see mode. I prefer the U1 and U2 to shooting banks.
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I'd be curious what you (or others) change in the menus. To be honest, I don't have mine written down so i don't know that I could recreate my current setup.
You likely can save you settings to your memory card as I can with my D800 and D300s. These cameras have four custom settings and shooting settings banks. I have one for general photography, sports (less auto features, more buffer), video and timelaps. I use general about 85% of the time.
You can copy the *.bin file to your memory card and from there to you computer. When I format memory cards, about once in ten days, I copy the settings back. I write protect the *.bin file on the primary card so I don't accidentally over-writing it.
This is quite easy to do. I don't have to dive deeper than the first page of My Menu to switch between general and video.
I hope something here helps
Dave Hartman
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This looks like an older article published in Japan early last year, but only picked up by Nikon Rumours 2 days ago
http://nikonrumors.com/2017/01/12/rumors-from-japanese-magazine-nikon-df2-to-be-based-on-the-d750-24mp-sensor.aspx/
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I just tried the df for the first time. Only for a few frames with manual lenses 105mm f2.5 and 28mm f2 . I´m a child of this new era, started with a d200 so ergonomics and specially grip is something I don´t if I will get use to. I see there is a work around that. It is not the kind of camera best fitted for when I get paid... Even with all that, I enjoyed the experience a lot iq, specially in low light, is still excellent.
...and I like it 8)
iso 3200 and 12800, manuel focus in dim light
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:o :o :o
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Yesterday was a horrid day, weatherize, in the town in BC where I live, and I spent a pleasant couple of hours reading the twenty pages comprising this thread. I read the posts that then comprised this thread more than two years ago, AFTER I bought my Df body, and had read nothing about this camera other than the Nikon advertisement which promised to put the fun back into photography. I knew, instinctively, this was the camera for me, as it seemed to me that the Df was the closest I'd ever get to a camera like my F2SB, and could use my collection of Nikon lenses as effortlessly as the old film camera body could. I saw no risk, no potential disappointment, an bought a black body after five minutes in the store; I was an instant convert, and remain a Df lover. Thank you, Nikon.
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I'm now on the Df bandwagon.
When I originally heard it was coming out, I looked forward to it with great anticipation. It'd be fun to use the old kind of control dials again, and especially to manually focus lenses via the viewfinder like I'd done for decades. This camera wouldn't replace my more modern DSLRs, but would supplement them and give me some additional options.
However, reviews were mixed; the designers didn't do as good a job as they should of integrating new and old functions, and included a strange mix of consumer and pro features. While I wanted the camera for its ability to manual focus with old lenses, I also wanted it to double as a handy AF camera so the AF module was a disappointment. This camera seemed like a half-baked and flawed effort that might be much better in a second iteration. Then there was the price. I could not justify paying US $2750 for a camera that I'd (most likely) eagerly replace in 2-3 years.
So I waited. Waited for a big sale. Waited for the Df2 to come out. Waited to see if refurbished or used units would come down in price. I waited for 4 years. Meanwhile, it's now rather uncertain that there will ever be a Df2, especially given Nikon's difficult situation at present. So I began to think that there was less value in waiting and that I really should take the plunge sooner rather than later. Then last week, I found a used Df in excellent condition at B&H for just US $1450. At that price and given my current attitude, I decided to go for it.
I've not really put the camera through its paces yet, but I've confirmed its great utility when used with manual focus lenses. I suspect this is going to be one of my favorite cameras. I still have to see how it handles with autofocus lenses, which it will be asked to do now and then. The ergonomics could be better and might frustrate me if I shot all day, but should be no problem when the camera is used intermittently.
I'm also looking forward to using the Df in low-light situations. I wonder how it'll stack up against my D750?
Here it is with the Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/37270696084_9a6d196288_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YMu4sm)Df with 85 (https://flic.kr/p/YMu4sm) by Bill de Jager (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99349448@N06/), on Flickr
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That lens looks right at home on it.
Maybe it is not the best camera for AF, but it is quite fun with manual lenses. I use a dk-17m magnifying eyepiece on it to help with fine manual focus. It can cause some vignette in the viewfinder corners, it definitely make focusing even more precise.
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Congrats for your purchase, Bill !
Your Df seems to be in very good condition. ;)
Now, something I'd like to point out :
It'd be fun to use the old kind of control dials again, and especially to manually focus lenses
Do you mean ''non AI/Auto lenses'' when you say ''manual focus lenses'' ? as you can use manuel focus lenses with any Nikon body...
Anyway, I bought my Df because it offered this feature which also exists on the F4 and more old bodies (I own many non AI lenses which I didn't want to convert).
I love this 85mm f/1.8. I have the same, but with an AI kit I swopped from a very worn one. Just a gem made of metal and glass... ;)
Actually, Nikon was, with this concept, clever enough to push on the ''nostalgic side of baby boomers, and younger as well.
I am sure, you will enjoy it !
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Congrats for your purchase, Bill !
Your Df seems to be in very good condition. ;)
Now, something I'd like to point out :
Do you mean ''non AI/Auto lenses'' when you say ''manual focus lenses'' ? as you can use manuel focus lenses with any Nikon body...
Anyway, I bought my Df because it offered this feature which also exists on the F4 and more old bodies (I own many non AI lenses which I didn't want to convert).
I love this 85mm f/1.8. I have the same, but with an AI kit I swopped from a very worn one. Just a gem made of metal and glass... ;)
Actually, Nikon was, with this concept, clever enough to push on the ''nostalgic side of baby boomers, and younger as well.
I am sure, you will enjoy it !
Thanks, Rosko.
I have done a lot of manual focus work with AI-type lenses on several DSLRs, using magnified live view. But I really don't try to focus on the screen because that just seems to produce very inaccurate and inconsistent results. With the Df that changes. Focus on the viewfinder screen is still not exact and I'm not going to show pixel crops, but it's quite good enough for a somewhat reduced-size photo (larger than shown here) to be sharp. Sometimes that's all you need or want.
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That lens looks right at home on it.
Maybe it is not the best camera for AF, but it is quite fun with manual lenses. I use a dk-17m magnifying eyepiece on it to help with fine manual focus. It can cause some vignette in the viewfinder corners, it definitely make focusing even more precise.
Here are some quick results from that same lens:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/37961773432_a698036746_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZQy1F3)Plum (https://flic.kr/p/ZQy1F3) by Bill de Jager (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99349448@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/26216098179_789f060269_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FWCmCK)Liquidamber (https://flic.kr/p/FWCmCK) by Bill de Jager (https://www.flickr.com/photos/99349448@N06/), on Flickr
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A review of the Df by an owner after 4 years usage
http://wellisntthisabitglorious.com/nikon-df-4-month-review/ (http://wellisntthisabitglorious.com/nikon-df-4-month-review/)
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I'm surprised by his view that the Df has a "dirty sensor" (meaning that it gets dirty quickly, I suppose). Mine is also four years old and I'm happy that the sensor stays so clean, while I'm using AI/AIs primes, as AF-S G zooms as AF-D primes, often changing lenses in windy conditions...
I usually get the camera and captor cleaned at my usual shop once a year (before summer) and missed the last rendez-vous, but still can't see traces of dirt on pictures (even at bigger f/ numbers). The Df's gimmick of captor cleaning by vibration is set at on/off and seems to work (silently).
I wonder how the author gets his captor so dirty that he points it as a "Con" ???
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I wonder the same, Jacques. My sensor stays remarkable 'clean' I must say.
Also surprised by the focus points. I can set it to 39 or 11. But not to 9.
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No other Nikon used by me has had less dirt on the sensor.
Lack of video is a 'pro' not a 'con' feature from my point of view.
The Df is the camera I reach for if I hope to enjoy photography. It is basic, highly capable, and just plain fun to use. The only modern Nikon so far where focusing the Noct is easy.
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Also surprised by the focus points. I can set it to 39 or 11. But not to 9.
With a G lens on (as a 50mm f/1.8 AF-S G), by pressing the button on the AF/M switch (below the lens release button) and turning the front wheel you get to 9 focus points and even to one... ;)
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No other Nikon used by me has had less dirt on the sensor.
Lack of video is a 'pro' not a 'con' feature from my point of view.
The Df is the camera I reach for if I hope to enjoy photography. It is basic, highly capable, and just plain fun to use. The only modern Nikon so far where focusing the Noct is easy.
Birna, your words are of wisdom :)
I'm still thinking that it's been a while that I hadn't so much fun with a camera (even with paid work). Reminds me when I jumped back from the F4 to the good old FM2n... Less weight, less fuss, better pictures because I took the time to think more about what I wanted !!!
Of course, I hear the call of the "Zirens" over the water, but will wait till I get some nice report from you on the Z6 (I don't think the Z7 files will fare well with an iPad, even Pro). ;) It's more about the lenses anyhow !
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One can have a true love -- and an adorable mistress (or two). I await the arrival of my ordered Zs with a relaxed mindset.
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With a G lens on (as a 50mm f/1.8 AF-S G), by pressing the button on the AF/M switch (below the lens release button) and turning the front wheel you get to 9 focus points and even to one... ;)
Thanks. Only looked in the 'menu'. Never knew that, but must say that 90% of the used lenses on the Df are MF.
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I think that with an AI/AIs "normal" lens (non chipped) you only have one focus point ! While replying to you the first time I had the 28/2.8 AIs on and moving the front wheel didn't change anything. I changed for the 50/1.8 G and could then change to one, nine or more (in AF-C)... :o
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Yes that's right. With manual lenses you only get one focus point and you must move the focus point manually. At least that's how it works on my D600, and the Df has the same meter/AF module...