NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: Arild on September 07, 2017, 16:55:56
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I have asked this a zillion times, sorry, but -- on the full frame Nikon D750;
what ASA should I go for now as outdoors is getting colder and very challenging contrasts betwen full light daytime, shadowy evenings and eventually pitch dark evenings?
Look at teh photos - taken in September
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To tame contrast use the base ISO or bump it up as little as absolutely necessary. The higher the ISO the lower the dynamic range. Using the highest ISO may require the use of a tripod.
Photographic Dynamic Range v. ISO - D750 (http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Nikon%20D750)
Dave
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The basic method should stay the same: go as low as possible in terms of the ISO setting, use "Flat" picture profile for the most pliable NEF and, if necessary, use the highlight priority metering mode (spot metering with asterisk).
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I assume after capturing the file with the flt profile and using highlight metering ... the file will probably need some shadows pulled, and then add contrast and saturation to make it look as you saw it with your eyes
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I assume after capturing the file with the flt profile and using highlight metering ... the file will probably need some shadows pulled, and then add contrast and saturation to make it look as you saw it with your eyes
Correct: Preserve the detail in the brightest areas, even if the darker areas look almost black on the camera's LCD...and accept that some processing work will be required to make the shot realistic later. Shooting raw is strongly recommended instead of trying to get it in JPEGs.
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I have asked this a zillion times, sorry, but -- on the full frame Nikon D750;
what ASA should I go for now as outdoors is getting colder and very challenging contrasts betwen full light daytime, shadowy evenings and eventually pitch dark evenings?
Look at teh photos - taken in September
Static subjects like this? Tripod and base ISO
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These days I shoot with the Neutral Picture Control with my D800. If I need it I'll switch to Flat in Capture NX-D. I make significant use of LCH and various "S" curves to put a bit of punch into the mid tones. I don't like totally black shadows but dark with a ghost of detail. Selective sharpening may be needed.
Dave
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Base ISO and graduated neutral density?
I can't help but noticed the term ASA instead of ISO; are you using a film camera still?
Edit - just re-read you are using digital.
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These days I shoot with the Neutral Picture Control with my D800. If I need it I'll switch to Flat in Capture NX-D. I make significant use of LCH and various "S" curves to put a bit of punch into the mid tones. I don't like totally black shadows but dark with a ghost of detail. Selective sharpening may be needed.
Dave
The choice of picture control on raw shouldn't matter right? One should be able to switched during post process, right?
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Yes, you are right. As long as you shoot raw you can decide later.
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I have been tres malade, so my plans are not getting very well.
That asa thing, sorry, I am 61 and still living in Nikon F3 era.
Being ill and grounded at home I am returning to my vast collection of dig. photos from 2002 to 2009. All of them cheap cameras and almost always jpg.
Nowadays, with d750, I only shoot raw, I see now what I misssed in these days, these jpg are soo hard to correct :-(
I am hoping to have a mountain trip soon, for the first time in my life using raw and a full frame Nikon.
This photo is a wafer thin jpg out of the old Canon G7, its sept 14th 2009, one of my most magic moments.
Since I have noe clue in them layers, I just pushed the buttons in shadows, hue/saturation, vibrance and brightness.
Thats all I am able to do being old and retired :)
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What can I say. This is a beautiful scenery! Even the flare and ghost enhance the color and the atmosphere of autumn. I don't see any inferiority in this jpeg file from an old point & shoot camera. The image reminds me of the "old" saying: the best camera is what you have with you.
Hope you get well soon and are ready for shooting!