NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => What the Nerds Do => Topic started by: brent_e on November 11, 2016, 14:40:52
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Hi Folks,
I just grabbed this old beast from fleabay and haven't got my hands on it yet. The aperture blades are stuck. Has anyone taken one apart? Any resources?
any help is appreciated!
Brent
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First of all, are the aperture blades stuck fully closed down, in an intermediate position, or is the aperture wide open?
If you try to move the aperture coupling lever on the rear of the lens, do the aperture blades follow?
Just realised you might not have received the lens yet. However, do these suggestions first, then we can start working from those findings.
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First of all, are the aperture blades stuck fully closed down, in an intermediate position, or is the aperture wide open?
If you try to move the aperture coupling lever on the rear of the lens, do the aperture blades follow?
Just realised you might not have received the lens yet. However, do these suggestions first, then we can start working from those findings.
Hey Bjørn,
thanks for getting to this so quickly.
They're stuck wide open. The lens shipped to a friend of mine (I live close to the border with the US so ship ebay purchases to a friend in NY) and he took a look at it. It was affordable....so a bit of a gamble, but I've always wanted one of these.
No, haven't received it, but will get it monday. the photos make it look like it's got damage on the mount which may have bent the coupling lever. I'll post up here when I get some more information.
by the by, any chance of buying a CPU for this lens???
Thanks again!
Brent
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These lenses are a breeze to put a CPU into. No problem with parts.
A bent coupling lever would easily result in a stuck aperture.
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I've searched online but can't find a manual for this. Do you have any sources??? I don't mind buying one.
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Not much of a need for a manual, at least for using the lens ...
Do you mean repair manual?
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ya!
I think I have the using part down! Well....we'll see.... ;D
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Hello, Brent.
Looks like I cannot find anything from the net as well. this lens is too exotic i think :o :o :o
http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h228391254
is it this one?
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That certainly is what lens I observe in front of me, here at home ....
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Rick,
thanks for doing a search!
It's surprising as it's not that crazy a lens! it seems that there are quite a few of them around and quite a few for auction, as well.
your link is to the AI-s version, which is optically the same (8 elements in 6 groups). The one I purchased is AI and not AI-s, and made prior to 1982 from the serial number.
I'm hoping it's pretty straightforward to fix! I'll certainly document the process and try to share it here.
I'd still love to find a repair manual or schematic! All i've got is a manual for the AF-I version, which is obviously a different build (AF, and 11/9 optics).
thanks again!
Brent
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That certainly is what lens I observe in front of me, here at home ....
how does it perform? :o :o :o
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Rick,
thanks for doing a search!
It's surprising as it's not that crazy a lens! it seems that there are quite a few of them around and quite a few for auction, as well.
your link is to the AI-s version, which is optically the same (8 elements in 6 groups). The one I purchased is AI and not AI-s, and made prior to 1982 from the serial number.
I'm hoping it's pretty straightforward to fix! I'll certainly document the process and try to share it here.
I'd still love to find a repair manual or schematic! All i've got is a manual for the AF-I version, which is obviously a different build (AF, and 11/9 optics).
thanks again!
Brent
you bad boy, now i am hunting for one :o :o :o
is there a big difference between the 2?
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how does it perform? :o :o :o
It was a very good performer in its days and that hasn't changed. However, you probably would need to do a little removal of CA now and then. Digital cameras are more demanding in this respect than film ever required.
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you bad boy, now i am hunting for one :o :o :o
is there a big difference between the 2?
ooops! sorry, brother!
there might be mine on the market if/when I get it fixed; not sure I have the room to keep it around! Also, I'm going to try it with a TC16A, which apparently makes a reasonable 480mm f/4.5 with the ability to autofocus.
Brent
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I finally got my hands on this beast. It has been dropped on the mount, which is not serviceable and also has some damage to the front elemet. Thankfully I have a spare 180 2.8, which has the same bayonet. I changed the mount out.
I can assemble the lens but it jams up when the black tube/sleeve (the one that mounts inside the bayonet and is held in place by 3 tiny screws) is installed and the aperture does not work. When the black tube/sleeve is removed I can mount the lens and shoot with it, but it stops down as I turn the aperture ring, telling me that it's not coupling with the camera properly. Maybe the aperture lever is out of position and can't be held properly without the tube/sleeve installed. After looking at a couple photos of the aperture lever on other samples of the same lens, it looks like it maybe be too short/bent from the drop.....that might be it....
anyone have any other ideas???
Honestly, I could probably use then lens as is. I can still focus in dim light stopped down to f/8.
What a beast of a lens. wow.
Brent
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Is the spring keeping the aperture open still present? Set the lens to f/22. The blades ought to close. When you push the stop-down lever sideways, the aperture should open. Let the lever go and the aperture should snap back to the stopped-down position.
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Is the spring keeping the aperture open still present? Set the lens to f/22. The blades ought to close. When you push the stop-down lever sideways, the aperture should open. Let the lever go and the aperture should snap back to the stopped-down position.
Hi Bjørn,
thanks for the response.
It is doing that. I can adjust the spring to be tighter, though. I made 1 adjustment already as it wasn't returning and was weak.
Brent
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Post some pictures of the mount and lever etc.
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thanks for the suggestion, Erik,
in taking some measurements and doing some more research I found out what should have been obvious to me initially. See attached.
The aperture blade has been repaired. It must be been broken when the lens was damaged. I found some spare parts from a place in Finland, of all places. Has anyone dealt with "kameratoridotfi" on fleabay??? Not only does he have a spare aperture blade, he also has a spare tube.
I measure the amount of blade sticking out on another lens. 3mm, approximately. The 300 blade sticks out 0.96mm or so. Clearly that is the problem.
take a look at the photos!
Thanks!
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OMG that looks rough that mount, misused,,, every time you mount and dismount this lens you will be scraping and grinding your camera mount,,, It hurts my heart to look at it.
Looks like the two parts of the aperture leaver is not aligned, my guess is they should be straight.
Aperture ring should be cleaned up and checked and burrs filed down, taps straightened,,,
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On second look the whole aperture lever looks strange unoriginal, why is it in two parts,,, one screw is too long the other is too short, screws holding the lever looks like they have glue on them,,,
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On second look the whole aperture lever looks strange unoriginal, why is it in two parts,,, one screw is too long the other is too short, screws holding the lever looks like they have glue on them,,,
Hi Erik,
thanks for the observations.
ya, the lever was broken and repaired so it's not original. I'm going to purchase another level and probably rebuild this lens. It could use it.
that mount is actually off another lens. the one that came with the 300 was bent! I'm not sure where to source one but I can see if I can find a replacement.
thanks!
Brent
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Brent, I have a stack of spare mounts (from 24-70 G). You might need to trim down guide flanges on its inner side to make it fit your 300, though, but that's trivial if you have a Dremel and cutting tool. Perhaps the mount points for the stray light baffle need to be re-drilled as well, but again trivial. These mounts are otherwise pristine, no burrs or dings, and the added benefit of being ready to accept a CPU ...
Shoot me a PM if interested.
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Sometimes this site feels like a quiz show :o
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Haha!
Pretty helpful quiz show!
I will send you a PM, Bjørn.
Lots of fun, guys! Thanks again. I'm grateful for this resource!
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Hi Brent
I can,t offer any advice on your repair needs, but can suggest a USB powered Soldering Iron to help release the very small cross head screws on the rear assembly. It is very annoying when one or more get a deformed head due to a screw driver slip :'(
My offerings are encouragement, this is a good lens and one I will have for many years to come. It works great with a Modified TC16A to give a limited AF, but once on a moving subject will track with it in a useful way, there will be sharp images in the sequence.
I intend on adding a CPU chip to this lens myself.
Another little tip to look after the front element, I got a "Car Plan" circular micro fibre cleaning pad from Amazon, it is the perfect size to sit inside the lens housing. It has a small pouch on one face so your fingers can remove it and place it with ease.
I have some images on NG taken with this lens and TC.
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Hi Brent
I can,t offer any advice on your repair needs, but can suggest a USB powered Soldering Iron to help release the very small cross head screws on the rear assembly. It is very annoying when one or more get a deformed head due to a screw driver slip :'(
My offerings are encouragement, this is a good lens and one I will have for many years to come. It works great with a Modified TC16A to give a limited AF, but once on a moving subject will track with it in a useful way, there will be sharp images in the sequence.
I intend on adding a CPU chip to this lens myself.
Another little tip to look after the front element, I got a "Car Plan" circular micro fibre cleaning pad from Amazon, it is the perfect size to sit inside the lens housing. It has a small pouch on one face so your fingers can remove it and place it with ease.
I have some images on NG taken with this lens and TC.
Thanks, John,
good tips!
I have a TC16A waiting in the wings. just need to get the guy to ship it! I need to modify it, of course.
Brent
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Hi Brent
The modification is quite straight forward, but is best done with a good quality variable temperature soldering iron. A friend of mine done this with little concerns, as I assured him, no matter what happens to the PCB on the inside, the TC, the unit will still be a MF TC if any thing went wrong, I believe this is covered on www.Foolography,com as there is also reference to a alternative PCB.
The useful tip I can offer is to make sure the Link wire for the repositioned pin is as fine as possible, my friend chose a wire from a Headphone cable in the end,
it is as fine as hair and allows a uncomplicated reassembly of the TC.
On the Lens mount side of the TC there is a small tab that projects and rotate when looking at it face on, from 11.O Clock to 2. O Clock. I do not follow any of the suggestions to get the TC and Camera Body to interface correctly.
I just mount TC and lens on camera, and using a small probe, a toothpick will do, rotate the tab until the EE flash disappears from the camera bodies LCD.
The tab is quite stiff when coupled to a lens so it will hold this position securely.
I have used the TC successfully on a 85mm, 135mm 200mm, 300mm 500mm.
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excellent info, John!
didn't think of the wire gauge thing. Thankfully we have some good equipment at work which should make the soldering simpler!
again, great info. thanks!
Brent
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haven't followed the thread but it does look like hack. I wonder what happened :o :o :o
very hard to judge but I trust that it is simple enough. I salvage my mounts from junk M rings for 3 holed one but this one has screw holes? I have 2 here but that's part of my reserve.
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Richard,
thanks for posting about this. I just saw it!
I got a mount from Bjørn (it happened to have a CPU on it, as well!).
I don't suspect I'll have time to do any repair work before the holidays but I'm going to try to make this beast serviceable in the new year.
Brent