NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => What the Nerds Do => Topic started by: MFloyd on June 05, 2016, 11:43:57
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Who could help me in converting this lens I bought new more than 40 years ago ? I had two 105mm lenses, one which has been converted, and this one. Preferably I would like to forward it to somebody who would take care of the process, and why not, chip it also. Against a reasonable remuneration off course. I know that the #39 conversion kit appears not to be available anymore. I have also a small spot of fungus on one of the rear lenses, but without a visible impact.
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what a lovely lens. converting it to Ai is not really that difficult. :o :o :o
if you do not intend to use it for bodies lower than the D7200, then you can follow my guide at richardhaw.com, all you need is a file and some patience. If you have a drill press then you can mill it properly ::)
Thankfully for this lens, the rear element can be accessed easily. ::)
if this is the only lens that you intend to have these done then you can send it to a technician. if you have more of them then it is probably best that you learn how to do it yourself 8) That is a very sell lens, I like it a lot. I own 4 105mm's 2.5
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Thank you Richard. I'll have a look. 😊
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I have a 105 of almost exactly the same age as that one, and it's a long time favorite. I converted mine long ago, and it was not terribly hard to do, using an approach similar to Richard Haw's. I did the further milling required to make the lens 100 percent compatible with some early AF cameras that have a min. aperture switch that pushes sideways (N60, Fuji S1, etc.), but for any camera that has an AI follower this is not needed.
One thing worth noting, though, is that there is a little spring attached to the aperture ring, and it's a little tricky to disengage and re-engage that spring when you take the aperture ring off. Not every old lens has this, but the 105 does. If you know in advance that it's there it can be done without huge fuss, but if not, you can stretch it on removal. It takes a bit of fiddling to re-hook it. If you're not comfortable with this, I'd suggest sending it out.
Last I knew Vermont Camera Works (in Pittsford, Vermont) did the conversion for a reasonably small fee. I don't know if they do the min aperture part, but they probably would if you need it. Dave, the boss there, recently de-fungused my old 400/5.6 lens (which he said was wickedly complicated inside), so I know they do that too. Might be worth an email.
p.s. I would add that newer low-end bodies, such as the D3xxx and 5xxx series, though they have a minimum aperture switch, are not harmed, because that switch is now pushed down instead of sideways. My D3200 will take nearly any Nikon lens of any age, converted or not.
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Matthew, thank you for your kind post. I will have a look at Camera Works in Vermont. I have four FX bodies left: F2As, F4, D610 and a D5.
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Oh, yeah. that little spring is annoying. many older Nikkors have it connected like this. :o :o :o
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It will be Erik Lund who will do the AI conversion, and equip the lens with one of Bjørn's chips. Thank you both, as well as the others who gave me guidance. 😎
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The lens has been delivered to Erik's place, and Bjørn has already sent the chip. Houraah
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Erik will add a great deal of convenience to this desireable old timer with not one but two levels of "technology refresh".
Well worth doing. Enjoy!
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On return I could then show off to the local NPS dealer who happens to be a friend and a rowing mate for over ten years.
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And this is how it will look. ;D
Although this a the P.C version from 1973.
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Not quite Chris, you have an original Ai ring on ;)
Her is how it looks, cleaned and lubed as well
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Yahoooo!!! 😜🍾👻
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Awesome! How could you keep the rabbit ears attached to the trimmed aperture ring with the screw holes and the screws altogether?!
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This is Erik, remember ... Another immaculately completed job.
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Not quite Chris, you have an original Ai ring on ;)
Her is how it looks, cleaned and lubed as well
Nah... with the AI-ring it looks even better/sexier. :D
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Thanks, a very nice sample of the first 105mm 2.5 Nikkor F lenses.
First I mark how much to remove to clear the tap on the camera mount. For this aperture ring a tiny bit more than 1.6mm needed to be cut off, so ample room for the screws for the ears, then I tighten the screws on the ears so I'm confident they are absolutely tight.
Then I 'saw' off the two rear pieces that needs to come off with a Diamond disc on the Proxxon milling machine, this disc leaves a very fine surface, I finish off all edges with a needle file.
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Thanks, Erik, for the details of the procedure. It is still awesome after knowing how you did it.
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Thanks again to Erik & Bjørn. I'm eagerly waiting to mount the lens and take some pictures.
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Just remember this is *not* an AIS lens and thus you have to use the aperture ring on the lens. As the Nikons use aperture setting by camera dial as their default, you do need to change that behaviour in the Custom Settings menu.
Be aware that if you keep the default setting you'll get an error message 'FEE' on the camera that can be eliminated by putting the lens to its minimum aperture setting, f/32 in this case. However, although the meter reading will be correct, the resulting exposure will be off because the camera is tricked by the non-linear aperture of the lens. Thus, operate the system in the old manner by rotating the aperture ring and all will work just fine. Metering is still correct as before, but now the exposure will be likewise as well.
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With regard to Björn's recommendation and for the D5, go to f4 "Controls"; "Customize command dials"; "Aperture settings"; select "Aperture ring"
For the D610 same procedure but by selecting f5; for other body's, you should look into it.
With regard to the non-linear aperture of the Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5, I made a quick test run through all the apertures by dialing with the two methods (aperture ring & body-dial): if there is any difference, it should be minimal; I will have to measure it further.
Anyway, the double transformation (chip and Ai) is a real success. Thank you again, Erik & Bjørn. :)
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Thank you! Nice to hear your satisfied;)
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Herewith, the first (non technical) picture of the 105mm f/2.5's second life:
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Well the 105mm f/2.5 is well known for its qualities as a portrait lens - just that this time the subject is your dog! ;D
Certainly sharp enough eyes.
A solid citizen indeed. Does he specialise in death by licking? ;D
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.... Does he specialise in death by licking? ;D
8)
and at ISO 11'400 (D5)...
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Awesome! How could you keep the rabbit ears attached to the trimmed aperture ring with the screw holes and the screws altogether?!
You need to trim the rabbit ears as well as the screws because both will interfere with the Ai indexing tab on th ecamera mount.
I also just leave them on when converting lenses rather then shave the aperture ring and rabbit ears seperately, then attach the screws and trim shave a little off as well.
Personally i just remove a fraction less material so the thread of the screws holding the rabbit ears does not show. I am certain Erik did not cut the aperture ring open up to the thread. This profile shows when leaving a paper thin layer of material there and then screw in the rabbit ears.
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Lenses that are going to be used on modern cameras don't need the rabbit's ears and they look just fine without them. Actually the rabbits ears are like rabbits themselves - a dammed nuisance, especially if they accidentally come up against anything delicate they can cause damage. I certainly don't quite cut into the holes. Normally I paint the cuts with etch primer and matt black enamel paint to finish.
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If they are used with post-1977 cameras, agree that these old lenses do well enough without their rabbit ears. For the widest range of compatibility, however, I let the rabbits stay put myself.
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I agree that the rabbit ears are not needed for metering. I do still find them very convenient because I can use them for orientation when chosing the aperture. I also use them for orientation when mounting lenses. At f5,6 the rabbit ears are at the same location as the black dot which tells you in which position to mount the lens.
So all in all, even though they do not interact with thecamera, they interact with me and allow me to perform a lens change and/or aperture change blind. Reason enough for me to keep them on there ;)
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I cut into the threads of the rabbit ear screws,,,
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If they are used with post-1977 cameras, agree that these old lenses do well enough without their rabbit ears. For the widest range of compatibility, however, I let the rabbits stay put myself.
Me,too. I like to use the Nikomat :o :o :o sometimes more than the F or F2 ::) (because of that tiny window with the meter)
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cute dog :o :o :o
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Point taken. I have quite a collection of the various Nikkormats (as they were labelled for sale outside of Asia). My much loved black FT3 works just fine with its Ai lens mount. ;D
(and I still have quite a few lenses with their rabbits ears left on to use on the rest which are pre-Ai.)
Me,too. I like to use the Nikomat :o :o :o sometimes more than the F or F2 ::) (because of that tiny window with the meter)
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My English Bulldog thanks Richard for his esthetic appraisal. He fully agrees.
45 years are separating the 105mm f/2.5 from the D5:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8849/27995060720_2615ea1cb2_k.jpg)