NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: Michael Erlewine on April 04, 2016, 22:08:44
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And it can. I am surprise at how much this bellows can do, especially if mounted on a geared head. In these shots, I am also mounting the Nikon PB-4 sideways on an RRS Panoramic Arm. Here I’m using the El Nikkor 105mm APO f/5.6 lens.
The combination of the geared head, the PB-4 mounted at this angle and the front standard tilting up and down adds a little extra dimension to the composition.
Here is a rather quick shot of the setup, FYI.
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Great pictures and nice setup!
It is probably easier to work wth in a studio than in the field.
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Why not put a sturdy L-bracket right onto the PB-4? Although the components in your setup seem sturdy, there is a long way between the support point and the load. Must be a challenge when doing elaborate stacking and the scene is to be focused over and over again.
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Why not put a sturdy L-bracket right onto the PB-4? Although the components in your setup seem sturdy, there is a long way between the support point and the load. Must be a challenge when doing elaborate stacking and the scene is to be focused over and over again.
Good idea, as usual. I will try it. It is touchy, yes.
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very nice setup indeed but more importantly....fabulous results - #1 is absolutely exquisite !!
Mongo has a PB-4 and a PB-6 with almost no use. You have given him some ideas and impetus to use them again (although an EL APO nikkor would also be nice to get those results). Nice work
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Why not put a sturdy L-bracket right onto the PB-4? Although the components in your setup seem sturdy, there is a long way between the support point and the load. Must be a challenge when doing elaborate stacking and the scene is to be focused over and over again.
One fairly easy solution for this is to use the Swiss-Arca plate now on the base of the PB-4 for the horizontal position and use the existing L-Plate on the camera for vertical for the Vertical PB-4 photo. This works well, with the condition that I have to change the direction of the receiving clamp (by 90-degrees) on the geared head. Much easier than trying to find an L-Plate that will successfully dodge all of the gears on the base of the PB-4.
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it is the best bellows unit from nikon according to some :o :o :o
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A Really Right Stuff MC-L (MC-L: Multi-Camera L-Plate) for the FM3a, F3, MD-12, etc. might work with the PB-4. I can try one later in the week. The PB-4 is pretty robust. An L-Plate might not help?
Dave
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A Really Right Stuff MC-L (MC-L: Multi-Camera L-Plate) for the FM3a, F3, MD-12, etc. might work with the PB-4. I can try one later in the week. The PB-4 is pretty robust. An L-Plate might not help?
Dave
The problem is that the short end of the plate has to be VERY short because of all of the knobs on the lower part of PB-4. I tried it and this is a problem. My solution (given earlier) actually works and is stable.
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Hi Michael,
I was curious about how you move the plane of focus with this setup. Do you move the whole unit, move the front standard, or move the rear standard. It seems to me that any of these options presents problems. If you move the whole unit, the your perspective changes. If you move the front standard, then both perspective and magnification change. If you move the rear standard, then perspective remains constant, but magnification still changes a bit.
Is this just something your stacking software handles for you?
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Hi Michael,
I was curious about how you move the plane of focus with this setup. Do you move the whole unit, move the front standard, or move the rear standard. It seems to me that any of these options presents problems. If you move the whole unit, the your perspective changes. If you move the front standard, then both perspective and magnification change. If you move the rear standard, then perspective remains constant, but magnification still changes a bit.
Is this just something your stacking software handles for you?
I use Zerene Stacker software for stacking. In communication with it's author Rik Littlefield, he points out that in this case, the easiest on his software is fixing the front standard and moving the rear standard.
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there is actually another technique which many people say produces great results which is to move the specimen table instead :o :o :o
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I love your setup. Looks like rugged and reliable gear.
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there is actually another technique which many people say produces great results which is to move the specimen table instead :o :o :o
I hear it works especially well for photographing automobiles and churches. ;)