NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => What the Nerds Do => Topic started by: Erik Lund on March 05, 2016, 11:01:55
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I am starting to prepare for the Scotland NikonGear Workshop and in this connection I wanted to work on Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 adding 62mm filter threads, to give the possibility to make the usual FX hack more flexible and the added benefit of using a standard 62mm lens cap.
Now it is the usual 'almost' circular fisheye after the 'hack' cutting off the petal lens hood ;)
By adding 62mm 'filter rings' the lens becomes a circular fisheye by cropping,,, naturally.
The donor was a Close up nr. 6T filter housing relieved from the glass and the male 62mm threads are used as a spacer inside to make the filter slide on to the lens and position, seat correctly.
A bit of Dremel work,,, and the filter ring slides into position solidly.
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An interesting twist. The "shaved" 10.5 mm has a front lens highly susceptible to knocks and bumps besides being a magnet for finger prints. I assume the filter "holder" can slide back and forth?
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The filter threads are fixed on this modification so extension rings are needed, it is set not to vignette even at infinity.
It would be possible to make it slide for instance with a tight fit and felt ;)
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Aha, the K-ring set comes to the rescue - yet again ....
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The D810 looks like new *ggg*
Great work!
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Thanks ;)
Yes 'K-Rings' but 62mm ones!
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sorry - I overlooked that size is expanded from the usual 52 mm.
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Amazing job, as always, Erik!
So, you would need some stacked filter rings without the glasses to use a cap?
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Thanks!
Yes, a couple of filter rings to avoid the lens cap touches the glass front!
Or now I use an old Nikon 62mm 'glass-less' CPL it has 72mm front filter threads :)
Especially for these Fisheye and ultra wides this I mandatory! Otherwise specs will show up in the images.
I'm in the final process of negotiating with Photografica.dk to rent their 6mm f/2.8 for the Scotland Workshop ;)
So I'm also looking into collecting all the bits and pieces for my off center tripod to balance it on, without the feet showing up in all the pictures,,, ;)
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Does that might Fish 6/2.8 come with its own truck and dedicated driver ??? :D
I have seen this massive lens three times now: Tokyo, London, and Copenhagen. Never taken a picture through it though. Yet.
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It's 5 kg or 10 Lb so yes it's appropriate we have rented a big car ;)
I'm sure your up to the task of shooting it - I'm just facilitating that the lens will appear in the Scotish landscape ;)
For sure we need to do a star sky shot amongst many others!
Now I'll shoot away with the tiny 10.5mm to get re-accustomed to the unique Fisheye perspective ;)
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BTW; The original petal lens hood that is cut off can after the modification be refitted again whenever DX shooting is needed, the petal lens hood fits inside the 62mm filter threads or in a separate filter ring- Quite neat IMHO
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Here it is;
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1633/24902585294_06fe592f0c_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DWyg1S)NIKKOR 10.5mm re use hood (https://flic.kr/p/DWyg1S) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
If mounted in a filter ring trimming of the ring is needed,,,
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I can hardly wait to go fish-eyeing in Scotland!
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Looks nice. I've been thinking about the shave as well for my 10.5, but now it is almost unnecessary since I've once again added more gear and now my "fishy" alternatives are
- Sigma 8/3.5 AF
- Samyang 8/3.5 MF
- Nikkor 10.5/2.8G
- Nikkor 16/2.8 AF D
MF works well with Fish...
I have my old signature still, but have to update that due to changes in my gear - probably need to remove the gear list as I tend to add more stuff instead of selling it...
New stuff
- the Samyang mentioned above
- Nikkor 24/1.4G - cheap second hand, no signs of wear
- D800 body - second hand and cheap - was looking for a used D3x and found it, but the same shop had the D800 a lot cheaper
Additionally some non-Nikon stuff
- Wacom Intuos Pro tablet (had to take the small version as it was the only size I could fit to my desk)
- Adobe Photoshop CC and Lightroom CC included with the Wacom deal
- old cameras I used to own but sold away - found dirt cheap ones - Canon FTb (bought one in 1970 - bought one now as a working sample with 50/1.8 lens for 70 euros), Canon A-1 (sold mine when bought my first Canon F-1n - paid only 5 euros for the "new sample", inserted a battery and it works), one Yashica 4x4 gray (found almost unused one at my wife's relatives - they know I love gear, so got it), one Kodak Brownie C (have used this type in the 60's), had my old F-1n cleaned + motor drive battery replaced (bought the camera + motor drive second hand in 1985 and used it as my main SLR until 2003 before switching to Nikon), bought a second F-1n as well a couple of weeks ago
- one Lytro Illum - cheap, second hand, remains to be seen will it be a display cabinet piece or something to be used. Funny issue though that the Lytro software is not comptible with my Nvidia Quadro
- writing this on my new iPad Air 2
Serious GAS/NAS but
I actually started my own company about one month ago. I can retire in two years and I needed a "hobby" for retirement time. I added all my interests to the business description so I'll get sales tax away from purchases like photo gear...
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Here is a quick shot, composite of two images with the 10.5mm, one in vertical and one in portrait direction.
A gimbal head can be used for this type of shot to avoid misalignment.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/2/1703/25959258726_c4aca2dd26_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FxVZdj)Rotunde10_5_2 (https://flic.kr/p/FxVZdj) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
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Erik,
Great result!
A bit of explanation would help. Why did you take the two images in different orientations? Why not just two vertical ones? How do do you handle the alignment? How did you do the stitching? Is the "shaved" version of the 10.5 mm needed for this task?
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Erik is an expert in using fish-eye lenses :)
Kim, I may perhaps answer your first question.
When you shoot the 10.5 in landscape mode, the top and bottom part of the photo is not fully round, parts are missing.
So you rotate the camera and lens 90 degrees to fill in the blanks in order to get a full circular image.
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Thanks Jakov!
I think I am understanding it now. So even with the shaved version, parts of the full circle is cut off. The landscape and the portrait pictures supplement each other, provided the two pictures are centred at the same point?
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Yes, that is it. Thanks Jakov ;)
And yes cantered along the optical axis
The 10.5 is designed as a 'Full frame' Fisheye on DX it just turns out that when rotating it 90 degrees you get the full circle, the two missing top and bottom bits of the image.
The advantage is that you can use a much larger area of an FX sensor than an 8mm Circular Fisheye lens on FX, this gives you much more 'pixels in use' so to say and the 10.5mm is a remarkably sharp performer!
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Erik, I am bringing this old thread to life again as when shaving my 10.5mm, I realized that with the material removed, there is very little left to keep the original cap in place (with the intact shade part inserted) to hold it in place even after adding tape, and I like your approach to this. So on a whim, but without fully understanding the description :) , I acquired a set consisting of a 6T and 5T ring with elements (to be removed) showing separation in order to try replicate your filter ring attachment modification,. After receiving the 6T (that differs slightly in the labeling from Erik's) here is my understanding of the dremeling modification that I would appreciates some feedback on. The 6T ring is hereafter just called the "Ring".
0. The retaining ring is loosened and put aside, the optical element is taken out of the Ring not to be used.
1. As the male thread on the Ring would extend too far and cover the focus collar on the 10.5mm, it is to be dremeled off to the base of the ring. (No threads shown in your image on the lens side)
2. The part of the ring that seats the optical elements (not sure how much is left of it after removing the male threads) is too narrow and has to be dremeled down to slightly wider diameter than the female threads of the Ring.
3. The female threads on the Ring might have to be slightly dremeled down a bit to fit tightly over the 10.5mm front.
(Additinoal question: is it to be pushed linearly in, or be fitted by rotating and sort of screwed on the the front of the 10.5mm)
4. Not so sure about this but from the following: The donor was a Close up nr. 6T filter housing relieved from the glass and the male 62mm threads are used as a spacer inside to make the filter slide on to the lens and position, seat correctly. A bit of Dremel work,,, and the filter ring slides into position solidly.
The male 62mm threads that are used as a spacer inside, you mean the retainer ring, right?
If used with a standard lens cap, it seems the added filter ring (that has to be added to the Ring) has to be unscrewed at every use unless a circular crop of the field is wanted?
About the shade: If mounted in a filter ring trimming of the ring is needed
Is this pointing to a regular filter ring opposed to the Ring as the Ring is wider or has already threads partly reduced?
Hope some of this makes sense. Outside and inside of the Ring shown below.
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The male 62mm threads that are used as a spacer inside, you mean the retainer ring, right?
If used with a standard lens cap, it seems the added filter ring (that has to be added to the Ring) has to be unscrewed at every use unless a circular crop of the field is wanted?
Yes, by spacer i meant like sleeve -But yes a retainer.
Yes, it will be like an old school Nikon lens cap, screw on - off.
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Thanks for confirming, Erik, looks like I was on the right track after inspecting the details of the Ring. I already have a 62mm filter stacking cap that can be used with a filter ring as part of that makeshift classical screw-in Nikon cap.
And after more considerations regarding #2-3, it looks like the Dremel approach will be to remove material from inside at the non-female-threaded portion of the Ring, and the male thread of the Ring (closest to the mount) will go away by itself, so hopefully no need to make a vertical cut from the outside to remove those threads, which could be difficult to do cleanly. It will be quite a bit material to remove so this project might take some time and patience and the need to borrow or acquire something more powerful than my old Dremel with its ailing batteries, or perhaps use the abrasion tool in a drill press for more control.
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Øivind, I can see a lathe and a milling machine and a whole lot of related tooling & jigs coming into your life sometime in the not distant future....
;D ;D ;D
BTW, Good luck with this project,
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so this project might take some time and patience and the need to borrow or acquire something more powerful than my old Dremel with its ailing batteries, or perhaps use the abrasion tool in a drill press for more control.