NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: David H. Hartman on January 03, 2026, 01:02:23
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I finally scratched enough together to buy a Nikon Z8. Coming from a Nikon D850 I've got a start as much is similar but it's like I've got to learn the ritual myths and incantations as without this a search in the many manuals and guides usually fails when the right words aren't chosen.
Minutes ago I search for where to set the viewfinder zoom percent 50%, 100%, 200%, etc. I finally found it again after maybe 15 minutes.
So now I'm trying to find out why the center focus point indicator doesn't turn from red to green to indicate focus achieved with non-CPU lenses. I could swear the focus point was changing color with AIS, non-CPU lenses yesterday. Am I wrong? Was that when I was manually focusing AF-D lenses?
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Any suggestions for online Nikon Z8 tutorials?
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Thank you for an assistance. :)
Dave
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Congratulations on the new camera!
Alas, the focus point only changes colour when the lens has a CPU. Your best bet is to assign a button to zoom to 100% to help with lenses without one.
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Ian,
Thank you for the information.
I've setup the Video Record button (red button near the shutter release) to magnify the view finder. I'm experimenting with 50% and 100% magnification. Somewhere I set a half press on the shutter release to cancel viewfinder magnification. That seems to work quite well and will become a reflex in time.
Best,
Dave
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You read text at about 250 words/minute. People giving talks speak no faster than 100 words/minute. So a one hour video contains much less information than a book it takes you one hour to read. Another way to look at it is that the script for a one hour video is about 24 pages of double-spaced 12 point font, and the information content is less than that suggests, because a good talk will follow the rule that first you tell them what you are going to tell them, then you tell them, then you tell them what you told them. Video is a very inefficient way to convey information, and it doesn't improve recall.
Thom Hogan's books are excellent - accurate, comprehensive and well set out, and you get free updates to the text when there are important firmware changes. Text is legible on my iPhone 16e and the search function is good.
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Thank you Les. I'll check out Thom Hogan's site and books.
Dave
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This outfit in Britain prints and ships instruction manuals for a reasonable charge:https://www.camera-manual.com/nikon-z8-manual-31177 (https://www.camera-manual.com/nikon-z8-manual-31177)
I have gotten the Thom Hogan books for every Nikon I've had since D3.
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I'm searching for reviews for high performance SDXC cards. If anyone can recommend reviews I would appreciate any help.
Thanks!
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I'm searching for reviews for high performance SDXC cards. If anyone can recommend reviews I would appreciate any help.
Thanks!
This is Thom Hogan's opinion of various makers of CFExpress cards. It is a fair bet that a company that makes good ones also makes good SDXC cards.
https://www.zsystemuser.com/accessories/z-accessories/cfexpress-cards.html
For SDXC you should look for a card with a V90 rating. That guarantees a minimum sustained write speed of 90 MB/s; actual speeds will likely be higher. The Delkin Black is what I use. It claims a stronger build quality and lacks the fiddly write-protection switch that seems unnecessary.
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Hogan's assessment of what are the most highly thought-of cards comports with my observations of what the "pro" shooters are saying on photo-related web forums. For video, I have acquired ProGrade Cobalt and Iridium CFe-B cards. For stills, I use the Lexar V60 SD cards that B&H throws into their package deals "at no extra charge". I shoot slowly (3 FPS is fast for me) but if I was a 20FPS raw stills shooter, and wanted the best/fastest SD cards, I'd get the higher-end ProGrade, Nextorage, and Delkin Black V90 SD cards.
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I bought a Nikon Z8 with a FTZ II adapter and then found an FTZ original model in 9+ so I bought that also.
CFEpress is out of my reach at this time. I looking at a ProGrade 128GB UHS-II SDXC Iridium Card, 300/200 MB/s, read/write. Is that good enough for dabbling in video, nothing serous.
I normally set my cameras to 3 to 5 FPS continuous low speed and squeeze off single frames. If I want a slow burst I just hold the release down. I'm not sure what I will use for high speed continuous. Do I remember the D850 topped at high speed continuous of 10 fps?
Dave
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I think that's probably an excellent SDXC card. I would buy that card if I needed another card and had the $$$.
Multiple FTZ's are a good thing if you have plentiful F mount lenses lying around. You may find, as I did, that the FTZ is better than the FTZII in one aspect: If you have a very bright light source just outside of the frame, the inner surfaces of the FTZII can bounce that hot spot onto the sensor. I fixed my FTZII's by adding small pieces of self-adhesive telescope tube black flocking to the offending interior surfaces. Now the FTZII might have less interior flare/bounce than the FTZ! Other than the flare issue, I have found no difference between FTZ and FTZII and I use them interchangeably. Example shot of FTZII flare with Zeiss ZF 28/2 mounted...
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Congratulations on your new gear.
Check out Steve Perry Backcountry gallery forums.
He has youtube tutorials videos and books.
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The ProGrade Digital 256GB UHS-II SDXC Iridium Memory Card (300/275 MB/s) offering at B&H Photo caused the index finger on my mouse hand to twitch. :)
Dave
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Congratulations on your new gear.
Check out Steve Perry Backcountry gallery forums.
He has youtube tutorials videos and books.
Thank for this suggestion. I'm watching Steve's videos now. Great information!
Dave
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I bought a Nikon Z8 with a FTZ II adapter and then found an FTZ original model in 9+ so I bought that also.
CFEpress is out of my reach at this time. I looking at a ProGrade 128GB UHS-II SDXC Iridium Card, 300/200 MB/s, read/write. Is that good enough for dabbling in video, nothing serous.
I normally set my cameras to 3 to 5 FPS continuous low speed and squeeze off single frames. If I want a slow burst I just hold the release down. I'm not sure what I will use for high speed continuous. Do I remember the D850 topped at high speed continuous of 10 fps?
Dave
I would strongly urge you to look into CFexpress cards rather than any kind of SD cards. SD is ok as an in-camera backup as long as you have a reliable main card in use. I've lost many SD cards which stopped working out of the blue, while never having an issue with CFexpress type B or XQD cards (which are both compatible with the CFexpress/XQD slot of the Z8) with hundreds of thousands of photos shot on both. I would argue if you go out and shoot your photos are worth more than the cost difference between the cards because your time is worth more. Anyway, of course, in the end, it's your decision.
Just a note: if you do get CFexpress cards, check the temperature performance first; some brands which used to be the most reputable are not so any more in CFexpress type B cards (due to running hot); good brands include Delkin (Black, Power) and Prograde Digital (Cobalt in my case).
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good brands include Delkin (Black, Power) and Prograde Digital (Cobalt in my case).
Thank you for this advice. I don't know if I can scratch together enough cash to buy a CFExpress at this time. I just read yesterday memory prices are going up. :(
I just bought a RRS L-Plate for the Z8. I should have waited.
I find SD more practical in the field but I would like to save images to both SD and CFExpress at the same time. That way if my SD card tanked I'd still have my images. Is that a good strategy?
Thank You,
Dave
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I'm looking at a ProGrade Digital 240GB CFexpress 4.0 Type B Gold with speeds of Max 3100/1600 MB/s Read/Write (Min Sustained Write Speed: 700 MB/s). I think I can swing the price of this one. I've got to do some counting. At today's CC interest I can't afford to over spend.
Dave
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What use do you need the high speeds for? High speeds give you more buffer at high frame rates and are necessary for better video, but if you don't regularly fill the buffer and don't do video you may not need a fast card.
SD cards have a life expectancy. Quality and storage conditions affect life expectancy but you should get five years or 3,000 read/write cycles, whichever comes first. Failure is sudden, so if you keep using cards until they die, you are likely to be inconvenienced. A better strategy is to buy new SD cards every time you buy a new camera or every five years, so that the risk of failure is low.
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I hope faster cards are less stressed, run cooler: maybe/maybe not? Transfers to a computer takes less time.
I dabble in video. I want clean, sharp video at 60hz. I have spent zero time exploring the Z8's video capabilities at this time.
Better cards have better warranties. The longer the warranty period the more confident the maker is of the quality of their product (or so I surmise).
I've never had an SD card fail but I've had a Crucial 0.5TB 2.5" Internal SSD fail. It gave slight warning. I managed to back it up to an HD then I tried macOS disk utility> firstaid> in recovery mode and then Diskpart in Win10 CMD and nothing helped. The backup to an HD was the last time I could read from the drive. I was surprised that the backup completed.
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Thanks for the advice on SD cards.
Dave
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He who hesitates saves money. :)
I placed an order for a ProGrade Digital 240GB CFexpress 4.0 Type B Gold Memory Card ($25.00 off) and a ProGrade Digital CFexpress Type B & UHS-II SDXC Dual-Slot USB 3.2 Gen 2 Card Reader ($12.00 off). I think the sale started Saturday.
Oops! I did some cut and paste and accidentally deleted that the supplier was B&H Photo-Video, NY; my favorite supplier since Lee-Mac Camera in Pasadena closed I guess a couple of decades back.
Dave
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My first Nikon Z8 would not give up the CFexpress card. I inserted the card once and that was it. No amount of finesse would free the card. I returned the camera to the seller and yesterday got the replacement. All seems well with this one.
This seller only offered SanDisk CFexpress B cards, no other brands. I bought a 128GB SanDisk card that identifies as a "ProGrade CFexpress PG05.5 Media" in macOS Disk Utility?? I wonder if SanDisk or whatever the card really is will give over-heating problems? Perhaps the over-heating problems have been corrected.
Now I'm scouring the internet for articles and videos of various photographer explaining how they setup their cameras with particular interest in how they use the advanced auto focus features.
Dave
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The general consensus is that The Sandisk CFe cards are more likely to overheat than the higher data rate cards such as Delkin Black, Nextorage Pro, and Prograde. Heating (and overheating) is said to occur when a large amount of data is being pushed to the card, such as 4K and 8K video. A look at the data rates of the various frame rates and codecs will give you an idea of when overheating (card or camera) might be more likely. The camera electronics heat up also according to the amount of data processing that is being undertaken. Also, the camera batteries heat up a bit when being heavily drained.
Some extreme stills shooters (20FPS for hundreds/thousands of shots in a short time period) report hot card warnings. Camera heating is reported separately from card heating in the Nikon Z8 system.
I got my Sandisk Extreme Pro CFe Type B 128GB card to overheat at about 12 minutes of recording 4K ProRes 422 10-bit, 30FPS, at room temperature. I haven't made the same test with the ProGrade cards yet.
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No such thing as a free lunch, as they say: if you want to shift data you have to provide power. It is impossible to convert all the power you provide into useful work, and the left-over power is dissipated as heat. Power dissipation in watts = (current in amperes)squared X resistance in ohms, so higher current has a big effect on power dissipation.
Current for a CF Type B card varies from 1500 mA to 3000mA, so at 3.3V power consumption = amps x volts = 5-10 W. That is a lot of power, and a lot of heat as a result, and what you are looking for is a card with low power consumption relative to its size and speed. Power consumption is substantially higher for higher capacity cards, so a 256 GB card is more likely to overheat than a 128 GB card, and is higher for reading than writing, so make sure the data is apples to apples.
The card manufacturers have not publicised power consumption data, which leads me to surmise there is not much difference.
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No such thing as a free lunch, as they say: if you want to shift data you have to provide power. It is impossible to convert all the power you provide into useful work, and the left-over power is dissipated as heat. Power dissipation in watts = (current in amperes)squared X resistance in ohms, so higher current has a big effect on power dissipation.
Current for a CF Type B card varies from 1500 mA to 3000mA, so at 3.3V power consumption = amps x volts = 5-10 W. That is a lot of power, and a lot of heat as a result, and what you are looking for is a card with low power consumption relative to its size and speed. Power consumption is substantially higher for higher capacity cards, so a 256 GB card is more likely to overheat than a 128 GB card, and is higher for reading than writing, so make sure the data is apples to apples.
The card manufacturers have not publicised power consumption data, which leads me to surmise there is not much difference.
This is not at all correct; CFexpress type B card temperature behavior varies greatly between cards and it has significant ramifications on the cameras' usability. When it came clear that overheating was a problem (mainly with the Canon R5), tests have been made of the temperature the cards run in when the same task is carried out with different cards (using a specific camera). The published temperatures also reflect the performance under extended stress, i.e. cards that run cooler tend to maintain their speed for a longer time in burst shooting or high data rate video recording. Here is one such site:
https://www.thessdreview.com/our-reviews/cfexpress/delkin-black-cf-express-type-b-512gb-memory-card-review/4/
Unfortunately these tests do not include the newest cards. For example, Prograde Digital Cobalt (which is their high-performance card) has been superseded by Iridium. Nexstorage is another high-performance card manufacturer (started up by former Sony engineers, reportedly) that hasn't been included in those tests. I would stick to Prograde Digital or Delkin cards (both are from time to time discounted heavily at B&H) when purchasing CFexpress type B cards. There are other tests which did not record the temperature of the card but simply the burst performance or video recording times before overheating under various conditions. For the Z8, for example, Gerald Undone and Ricci Chera have published some overheating tests. It turns out the card type greatly affects how long the camera can record high-quality video before heating becomes a problem.
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Thank you for all the responses.
I wish the seller of the camera offered Delkin Black but they didn't. I had to buy a CFexpress card from the seller of the camera so if bad luck struck twice the return would be easy. If the SanDisk/ProGrade 128GB card run warm but not excessively I'll probably slide it in my D850. I'm thinking the data transfer speeds of the D850 are slower so heat might be less of a problem with it.
Thanks again, you guys are great!
Dave
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Dave, After reading the last few posts, I ran a test with my Z8 + Sandisk 128GB CFe-B card. I had run a test a few months ago recording using the data-heavy ProRes 4:2:2 10-bit format at UHD3840/30FPS. It ran about 12-14 minutes before issuing hot card/hot camera warnings. Just now, I tested again, same camera and card, but recording H.265/10-bit at regular HD1080/30FPS and it went so long...over 80 minutes...that I shut it off out of boredom. The card and camera got slightly warm, not hot, and no warnings from the Z8. Conclusion: Low data rate recording formats (like regular HD 1080) generate less heat than the high data rate formats such as ProRes.
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This is not at all correct; CFexpress type B card temperature behavior varies greatly between cards and it has significant ramifications on the cameras' usability. [...] It turns out the card type greatly affects how long the camera can record high-quality video before heating becomes a problem.
If the card gets hotter than ambient temperature, the only place that extra extra heat can come from is power leaving the battery and being dissipated as heat. One card cannot get hotter than another unless it consumes more power.
The hottest card on the site you linked to was just over twice as hot as the coolest, and as I pointed out, manufacturers' data shows that for the same brand changing the task and the card size can double the power consumption, and double the power consumption means double the final temperature. A lot of the reported differences in final temperature are much smaller - eg, 40 degrees above ambient vs 30 - and that corresponds to a smaller difference in power consumption than you would expect from changing card size.
That means that testing how hot cards get requires being very careful, and a lot of people are not nearly careful enough (eg, not using the same size cards). However, allowing that some cards get hotter than others, the question is whether the reason some cards get hotter is, as everyone seems to assume, differences between the cards, or differences between how the cameras handle the cards. Eg, it has been suggested that some cameras allow and others don't allow cards to go to standby or sleep immediately after a burst, which may matter because power consumption is very low in standby and sleep and the card has a chance to cool down.
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If the card gets hotter than ambient temperature, the only place that extra extra heat can come from is power leaving the battery and being dissipated as heat. One card cannot get hotter than another unless it consumes more power.
The hottest card on the site you linked to was just over twice as hot as the coolest, and as I pointed out, manufacturers' data shows that for the same brand changing the task and the card size can double the power consumption, and double the power consumption means double the final temperature. A lot of the reported differences in final temperature are much smaller - eg, 40 degrees above ambient vs 30 - and that corresponds to a smaller difference in power consumption than you would expect from changing card size.
That means that testing how hot cards get requires being very careful, and a lot of people are not nearly careful enough (eg, not using the same size cards). However, allowing that some cards get hotter than others, the question is whether the reason some cards get hotter is, as everyone seems to assume, differences between the cards, or differences between how the cameras handle the cards. Eg, it has been suggested that some cameras allow and others don't allow cards to go to standby or sleep immediately after a burst, which may matter because power consumption is very low in standby and sleep and the card has a chance to cool down.
The main practical difference between these cards is that some of them allow longer recording times before the card and camera overheat and the same is true of burst shooting performance. Differences can be significant in the duration of recording video, i.e. one card might allow 20 min of video recording and a better card 35 min of recording before overheating stops the recording. In burst performance the difference can be that one card allows 3 times as many images to be captured in a given time at maximum burst speed than another, in heavy burst shooting.
Personally I've always bought the cards recommended by Nikon at the time; for a long time it was Sony XQD and later Sony CFExpress type B but when the Z9/Z8 came out Nikon determined the best performance was with Prograde Digital Cobalt 325 GB cards (at that time) and that's what I got when I needed to record video with the Z8. The Sony cards don't perform as well but for my still photography they also have been OK. The Cobalt card allows clearly more unrestricted video recording while the Sony cards would stop recording after overheating in a moderate video recording situation. I typically use Prores HQ 422 4K for my video needs as the quality is intermediate between raw and h.265 and the color is much nicer than h.265 IMO, while all the distortion and vignetting corrections are applied automatically to the Prores 422 HQ video, which they would not be applied in case of raw video. I really love the quality of the Prores HQ and was astonished by how much it resembles still photography image quality. Anyway, my main point is that when buying CFexpress type B cards, you really need to be aware of the differences in performance between the different card types.
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Thank you for the continuing great information. I just started using the Z8 for video recording. I'm looking for "high quality home videos." at this time. :) Perhaps later I'll want more.
Best,
Dave
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My first card...
ProGrade Digital 240GB CFexpress 4.0 Type B Gold Memory Card
BH # PR240CF4MC MFR # PGCFX240GBTBH
1 Review
Key Features
240GB Storage Capacity
Max Read Speed: 3100 MB/s
Max Write Speed: 1600 MB/s
Min Sustained Write Speed: 700 MB/s
Records Raw 8K, 6K, and 4K Video
What I bought with my 2nd Z8...
Video recording gets interrupted due to insufficient sustained write speed (not listed).
SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO CFexpress Type B Memory Card
BH # SACFEP128GB MFR # SDCFE-128G-ANCNN
1,357 Reviews
Key Features
128GB Storage Capacity
Max Read Speed: 1700 MB/s
Max Write Speed: 1200 MB/s
Records Raw 4K Video
Compatible with Select XQD Devices
Downloadable Photo Recovery Software
What I'm considering buying when I can save enough...
If I understand correctly this card has a high enough sustained write speed for most anything the Z8 requires. I'm not sure so I'm asking. :) (i.e. the fool really doesn't know).
Delkin Devices 512GB POWER 4.0 CFexpress Type B Memory Card
BH # DEDCFX4P512 MFR # DCFX4P512
52 Reviews
Key Features
512GB Storage Capacity
PCIe 4.0 x2 Bus
Max Read Speed: 3650 MB/s
Max Write Speed: 3240 MB/s
Sustained Write Speed: 820 MB/s
Records 8K, 6K, and 4K Video
Records High Bit Rates and Frame Rates
Records Raw Photos and Rapid Bursts
Resists Shock and Water
I notice in photos the ProGrade CFexpress B cards has aluminum that wraps around from the back into the channel where the locking notch is. I wonder if that aluminum wasn't pressed tight in place and caught on the card slot and would not allow full removal from the card slot.
Dave
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Long discussion about Z8 + stuck cards here: https://bcgforums.com/threads/cf-express-type-b-card-stuck-in-z8.50806/page-5#post-570175 (https://bcgforums.com/threads/cf-express-type-b-card-stuck-in-z8.50806/page-5#post-570175) All I got from it is that it'd be a good idea to test a variety of cards in your Z8 before the camera warranty expires.
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Cards meeting the 4.0 standard may help transferring data from a card reader to your computer, but AFAIK no current camera can write to the card at 4.0 speeds - they fit and work fine, but you don't get the 4.0 speeds. That may just mean a firmware update, but as of today a 4.0 card won't help the camera so there is no rush. Plus, the peak power consumption allowed by the 4.0 standard is higher, so overheating small cameras will be a bigger problem than it is now. Some manufacturers are advertising card controlled "thermal throttling" for 4.0 cards - as the card gets hot it slows down - rather than camera-controlled throttling as at present.
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Some manufacturers are advertising card controlled "thermal throttling" for 4.0 cards - as the card gets hot it slows down - rather than camera-controlled throttling as at present.
Hmmm. I never thought about throttling in relation memory cards, but it makes sense.
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Just to park the question on memory cards David....
Can you tell us
- How you're getting on with your Z8 overall?
- Two or three things you're really pleased by?
- Anything you don't yet find as "good" as on your previous gear?
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Can you tell us
- How you're getting on with your Z8 overall?
- Two or three things you're really pleased by?
- Anything you don't yet find as "good" as on your previous gear?
There is a lot to learn with the Z8 given that there are more options for customizing controls. I'd like one more programmable button for locking the shutter speed and aperture. I've assigned the auto bracket button to that function. I found with my D850 that I sometimes accidentally changed the shutter speed when shooting on camera flash in a PJ/PR fashion as photographing guest at a reception. The flash might go into PF sync mode due to a short shutter speed, e.g. 1/500, 1/1000 and recycle times were too long for my style of shooting.
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I had a weird problem with manual video where aperture preferred (A) was fine but switch to manual (M) the shutter speed was 1/3200? Rolling the command dial to select a slower shutter speed was normal down to 1/1000 but then it was read out something like 9983.3 (e.g.) and the increments were very small. My thumb got tired rolling down to a setting of 60.3 or such. I tried to find what setting I might have changed that caused this. Then I tried Photo Shooting Menu "D" and when I switched to the D bank and changed the mode to "M" the shutter speed was 1/30 and I could change it to whatever I wanted e.g. 1/60. I've solved the problem but have no idea what caused it.
The Manage feature allow not only renaming but copying a bank so I copied the D bank to A. I really like the Manage feature.
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With video set to 8-bit, 4320p at 30 frames sec. at room temperature I was able to record 11 min. 30 sec. before a warm card indicator was displayed. The card felt warm but not hot. what ever the sustain write speed of the SanDisk 128GB card is it's just OK for that amount of data. When I can afford to I'll pass that card to my D850 which isn't a demanding as the Z8. One video I viewed suggested shooting video in M with the shutter speed of 1/60 for 30 fps.
I definitely want a faster sustained write speed than my current SanDisk 128GB. I bought it because if the second Z8 had a problem with EXexpress card sticking I wanted only one merchant involved.
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I'm bird sitting a pesty cockatoo just now and she wants a head scratch. I hope this post makes sense.
Dave
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Does anyone here know of any good tutorials for, I guess mid-level video shooting?
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I had a weird problem with manual video where aperture preferred (A) was fine but switch to manual (M) the shutter speed was 1/3200? Rolling the command dial to select a slower shutter speed was normal down to 1/1000 but then it was read out something like 9983.3 (e.g.) and the increments were very small. My thumb got tired rolling down to a setting of 60.3 or such. I tried to find what setting I might have changed that caused this. Then I tried Photo Shooting Menu "D" and when I switched to the D bank and changed the mode to "M" the shutter speed was 1/30 and I could change it to whatever I wanted e.g. 1/60. I've solved the problem but have no idea what caused it.
This could be the "High Frequency Flicker Reduction" which is found in the Photo Shooting menu and the Video Shooting menu. Set it to OFF for normal stills shooting. Then you will get "normal" shutter speeds without all the in-between speeds. The HSFR setting is only possible with shutter speeds set between 1/1000 and 1/30 which explains why it "came on" when you dialed down past 1/1000. If you elect to shoot video with G13 set to "Shutter Angle" instead of normal 'Shutter speed', the HSFR will inactive and grayed out.
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Thank You Keith!
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Can you tell us
- How you're getting on with your Z8 overall?
- Two or three things you're really pleased by?
- Anything you don't yet find as "good" as on your previous gear?
I'm getting on quite well with the Z8.
Things I'm pleased with are related to low light shooting and manual focus...
No moving mirror to blur the image at slow shutter speeds and in body stabilization (IBS).
I like the view of an optical finder of my D850 but in low light it gets dim so the Z8's EV is so bright it is much better.
I've set EV magnification to 100% by pressing the remapped red video record button and magnification is cancelled for framing with a half press of the shutter button.
Not as good would be the FTZ and FTZ II not giving full aperture viewing with AI and AIS lenses and AF-D lenses become MF lenses. Also the focus indicator doesn't change red to green with non-CPU lenses. It does with AF and AF-D as they have a CPU. The Red/Green focus indicator seems quite accurate, quite useful. I hope Nikon will release an FTZ III that is more functional with with AI, AIS, AF and AFD lenses but I doubt that they will.
I would like one more programmable button to make it easy to lock the shutter speed at 1/200th for PR/JP style, on camera flash shooting. I've given that function to the auto bracket button on the left.
Dave
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Hello Dave,
If you frequently use manual Nikkor lenses, there are also ways to use focus confirmation. I have compiled an overview of different types of manual lenses for the Zf here. The same applies to the Z8.
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=11247.0