NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: Airy on October 08, 2024, 22:54:56
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Obviously, the stabilizer helps, although the image still feels shaky in the absence of any monopod. Foolish me, I thought I could spare it. Focussing is much safer than when using the Df, thanks to focus peaking or magnifier.
As for the results, they are a matter of taste.
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... some more, still botanical or mineral:
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... and, finally, with humans (all were shot in downtown Lille). Please note that the seemingly B&W ones are actually color photos. No desaturation was involved. Sad, isn't it?
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Wow what a sharp lens. I owned the 1000mm F11 and always had owls with fuzzy eyeballs because of mirror slap on my Nikon FE. These lenses work best at 20-50 feet but at distant subjects they compress ultra violet light which kills sharpness. Although the flower shot looks great. These pix look great and don’t show the donut shaped bokeh balls except the last shot. Thanks for sharing. Regards Gerry
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These lenses work best at 20-50 feet but at distant subjects they compress ultra violet light which kills sharpness. Although the flower shot looks great. These pix look great and don’t show the donut shaped bokeh balls except the last shot. Thanks for sharing. Regards Gerry
I do not quite understand "compress UV light"; could you elaborate? I did notice some phenomena such as a central "hot spot" or a general low contrast, but UV is not necessarily the cause.
Concerning the donut bokeh: it is seldom pleasant, although it happens (see e.g. the "boiling bush" shot I posted somewhere here). Today, I however made use of foreground bokeh more often than background bokeh, and it looks more "plastic".
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There doesn't seem to be any negative side of the reflex lens here. The characteristic ring bokeh is effectively utilized, at least to my eyes.
I particularly like the "Westfirled" and "Café de Paris".
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And it's very easy to glue a Dandelion chip to the 500mm Reflex. This way also the eye detection works with Zf. On this camera the Reflex is very useable, on a DSLR decent pictures were very hard to obtain.
But – don't get your hands on a Z Nikkor 400/4.5. You will be lost :)
(tree leopard with Zf and 500mm Reflex new)
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Great shot. Who can provide the chipping?
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It is a Dandelion chip, just glued to the Reflex with the rear filter removed. I bought them from Andrey Kuryanov's ebay shop (search for Dandelion chip).
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I do not quite understand "compress UV light"; could you elaborate? I did notice some phenomena such as a central "hot spot" or a general low contrast, but UV is not necessarily the cause.
Concerning the donut bokeh: it is seldom pleasant, although it happens (see e.g. the "boiling bush" shot I posted somewhere here). Today, I however made use of foreground bokeh more often than background bokeh, and it looks more "plastic".
When you shoot distant subjects the ultra violet that comes off the land is compressed by the telephoto effect of the lens and the picture comes off looking very cold white balance on film. On digital cameras it’s easily corrected in post or other shade preset. I just remember getting landscape shots back in the film days with a blue overcast. If you do a Google search on compression of ultraviolet light on long lenses it is an interesting phenomenon that happens from 500mm and up
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I glued the chip to the filter, then I have an easy way to switch between a chipped and unchipped lens.
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Oh, and with the chip does IBIS work properly? With the camera body really recognizing it as 500mm?
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Oh, and with the chip does IBIS work properly? With the camera body really recognizing it as 500mm?
You'd expect the IBIS to work even without chip, as is and was the case with Olympus m43 cameras. Accelerations are measured on the camera body and image displacement is measured on the camera sensor, so the lens is not involved in the immediate inputs, and the FL is about tuning the feedback loop. Setting the FL manually is sufficient to "tune" the IBIS on Olympus cameras. I'll check the behaviour of the Zf (so far I only shot pics, not bothering to study the animal).
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I glued the chip to the filter, then I have an easy way to switch between a chipped and unchipped lens.
... the rear filter? makes me wonder how all of this is wired...
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You'd expect the IBIS to work even without chip, as is and was the case with Olympus m43 cameras. Accelerations are measured on the camera body and image displacement is measured on the camera sensor, so the lens is not involved in the immediate inputs, and the FL is about tuning the feedback loop. Setting the FL manually is sufficient to "tune" the IBIS on Olympus cameras. I'll check the behaviour of the Zf (so far I only shot pics, not bothering to study the animal).
IBIS is easily set for non cpu lenses, but chipped lenses are at the mercy of how the chip plays with IBIS. I am pretty sure I heard that Dandelion chips can’t pass accurate IBIS info.
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IBIS is easily set for non cpu lenses, but chipped lenses are at the mercy of how the chip plays with IBIS. I am pretty sure I heard that Dandelion chips can’t pass accurate IBIS info.
Richard, thank you very much for your advice regarding the Dandelion chip. You are right, the IBIS of the Nikon Zf does not work with a lens with a Dandelion chip. How could I not have noticed that! Shame on me.
Now the Dandelion user is in a dilemma. With Dandelion: correct EXIF data, aperture control via the camera dial, focus confirmation via green frame.
Without Dandelion: functioning IBIS, aperture setting on the aperture ring, no comprehensive EXIF data.
Choosing between these options is actually quite simple: original Nikon FTZ for use with Dandelion, third-party „dumb“ adapter for use without a chip.
I'm going for the second option, I prefer the aperture setting on the lens to the dial on the camera anyway.
Thank you again for your important advice.
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I know that it is very "clunky", but some (but not all) Z camera bodies allow a voice recording to be made, e.g. the Z6, so that facility could be used to record verbal EXIF data for subsequent insertion via your computer.
Yes, clunky, but sometimes handy.
Richard, thank you very much for your advice regarding the Dandelion chip. You are right, the IBIS of the Nikon Zf does not work with a lens with a Dandelion chip. How could I not have noticed that! Shame on me.
Now the Dandelion user is in a dilemma. With Dandelion: correct EXIF data, aperture control via the camera dial, focus confirmation via green frame.
Without Dandelion: functioning IBIS, aperture setting on the aperture ring, no comprehensive EXIF data.
Choosing between these options is actually quite simple: original Nikon FTZ for use with Dandelion, third-party „dumb“ adapter for use without a chip.
I'm going for the second option, I prefer the aperture setting on the lens to the dial on the camera anyway.
Thank you again for your important advice.
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Richard, thank you very much for your advice regarding the Dandelion chip. You are right, the IBIS of the Nikon Zf does not work with a lens with a Dandelion chip. How could I not have noticed that! Shame on me.
Now the Dandelion user is in a dilemma. With Dandelion: correct EXIF data, aperture control via the camera dial, focus confirmation via green frame.
Without Dandelion: functioning IBIS, aperture setting on the aperture ring, no comprehensive EXIF data.
Choosing between these options is actually quite simple: original Nikon FTZ for use with Dandelion, third-party „dumb“ adapter for use without a chip.
I'm going for the second option, I prefer the aperture setting on the lens to the dial on the camera anyway.
Thank you again for your important advice.
That’s why I stuck the chip onto the filter. Filter on, filter off ;-)
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I only have one Dandelion chip, on a BR2, and got curious so I had to check it out as I had yet to use it on the Z8. What I find is that to make it register the focal length programmed into it when mounted on the Z8 via the FTC II adapter, it has to be mounted while the camera is turned on. Then IBIS then works and is available in the menu, otherwise it does not register at all and Z8 will use any non-cpu data that is already set at the time to guide the IBIS. So the trick to make my Dandelion work on the Z8 after mounting normally with camera off (to protect sensor against dust) is to then twist it to half dismounted and back again with camera turned on. I cannot verify the effectiveness, but I can then hear IS working when I expose and it is turned on in the menu. My Dandelion is quite old, from 2011 or earlier, and from the above it would seem like the design might have changed, or perhaps different camera models respond differently. (My Dandelion version is the one that registers as a G-chip.)
This seems to be part of the same problem as with Birna's chips that do not fully register after being mounted while Z8 is off, but opposed to with the Dandelion, Z8 will register correct EXIF data in other fields than the Lens Model field so that IBIS works without using the above trick.