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Nikkormat FTN, Nikon FE and Nikon FM2n repair articles!

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richardHaw:
made these some time ago. The nikkormat is part of a long series about this camera covering the FT,FS,FTN,FT2,FT3,EL and hopefully the EL2 and ELW, too.  :o :o :o

Nikkormat FTN
https://richardhaw.com/2018/12/16/repair-nikkormat-ftn-part-1/

Nikon FE
https://richardhaw.com/2018/12/09/repair-nikon-fe/

Nikon FM2n
https://richardhaw.com/2018/11/23/repair-nikon-fm2n/

Hugh_3170:
Ric, in relationship to the Nikkormat FT and FTn, would it be possible please to detail the values of the resistors used in conjunction with their meter circuitry and to compare them with the corresponding components for the FT2 and the FT3?

What I am getting at here is the possibility of converting the FT and FTn Nikkormat versions to using easy to find Silver batteries rather than the now impossible to find Mercury cells or the very expensive Wein cells.

If I am just dreaming in respect of this idea/request, then don't be embarrassed to say so!  ;D

TIA



--- Quote from: richardHaw on December 23, 2018, 02:37:45 ---made these some time ago. The nikkormat is part of a long series about this camera covering the FT,FS,FTN,FT2,FT3,EL and hopefully the EL2 and ELW, too.  :o :o :o

Nikkormat FTN
https://richardhaw.com/2018/12/16/repair-nikkormat-ftn-part-1/

Nikon FE
https://richardhaw.com/2018/12/09/repair-nikon-fe/

Nikon FM2n
https://richardhaw.com/2018/11/23/repair-nikon-fm2n/

--- End quote ---

richardHaw:

--- Quote from: Hugh_3170 on December 23, 2018, 14:53:10 ---Ric, in relationship to the Nikkormat FT and FTn, would it be possible please to detail the values of the resistors used in conjunction with their meter circuitry and to compare them with the corresponding components for the FT2 and the FT3?

What I am getting at here is the possibility of converting the FT and FTn Nikkormat versions to using easy to find Silver batteries rather than the now impossible to find Mercury cells or the very expensive Wein cells.

If I am just dreaming in respect of this idea/request, then don't be embarrassed to say so!  ;D

TIA

--- End quote ---

Hi! thats possible but there are 3 or so resistors on the FT/n  :o :o :o

well, i am actually planning to write an article on how to modify them using the shotky diodes. its a popular mod for the FTn and theres even a video for it.
its popular here in japan but many people use the MR adapters (not cheap) that regulates the voltage to 1.35v. I use these too but i think making a permanent mod is the way to go. the difference in my approach is i will install it at the bottom near the negative terminal  ::) the top is too crowded in my opinion.

now, most if not all people that I know who did this had to adjust the 0 level of the galvanometer, effectively adjusting the mete's accuracy by a bit. using a straight 1.5v battery will give you EV differences of about 2 stops or so but the modified ones using the diodes is within a stop. the reason for this lies in the repair manual. its advised to calibrate the FT/n by changing the fixed resistors (dumb decision but whatever) or playing around with the position of the brush in conjunction to variable resistor. both require disassembly and reassembly and is a waste of time. I should know, i wasted hours doing this. :'( :'( :'( the easiest way is to just push the galvanometer's adjuster so it will give you the "correct" display. this is not recommended according to the repair manual but is sometimes acceptable due to the bothersome and tedious process of calibrating the FT/n.

going back to the voltages. since there's plenty of combinations due to the fact that the fixed resistors aren't standard since they were selected to compensate the voltage, its probably futile to look for a "standard" value on the FT/n. this is also the reason why I always have to re-calibrate the galvanometers each time i make a transplant. I made successful meter and circuit transplants (its simple) several times from a good working one to a pretty camera with a dead one and the story is always the same. it's off by a stop or so.the annoying thing is that the FT family retained this up until the FT3, the only variable resistor you have is the one controlling the ISO and aperture and its a waste of time to calibrate these. I don't know why this had to be done like this, maybe Nikon wanted to cut cost. if you read the Nikon article on the Nikomat you will see that the marching order was to build it cheap and maybe variable resistors cost so much back then they its cheaper to pay for an engineer to calibrate it by soldering fixed resisters.

richardHaw:
these are the usual things that I salvage. the fixed resisters show different colored stripes and that means that they can be "random" combination. :o :o :o

the nikkormats are wonderful but i hate working on them sometimes.

richardHaw:
i would like to write a semi-detailed explanation on the Copal Square since i don't think anybody has gone through them in-depth. i don't know how these work but I do know that there are at least 3 adjustment points to adjust the speeds. 1 for the slow, 1 for the usual speeds and 1 for 1000 which doesnt always work  o :o :o

if anybody has a manual for these I would appreciate if you can share it. I would paypal you if it contains the information that I need. ::)
i think i have a japanese manual, i just need to search my manuals library...

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