D850: questions and answers

[Roland Vink]

That might not give enough torque to attach the plate securely enough, with a hex key you can get it really tight. On the other hand if it starts to get loose it would be easier to tighten again. I was on a 4 day hike once when the QR plate on my camera started to loosen, and I had no hex key. I managed to keep the plate tight enough using various implements, but it was frustrating. I always keep a hex key in my camera bag now

[David H. Hartman]

Maybe RRS could finally eliminate the idiotic requirement to have a hex key in order to attach and remove their various plates while they're improving that L-plate? Too much to ask, probably...?

The strength of the head would be compromised by a slot. It's a simple enough fastener that a different fastener can surly be fond. I'd use only stainless steal. I don't know much about stainless steal grades. YMMV.

I'd look for a "key" style hex tool one might carry on a key ring.  Note to self: look for such a tool to replace an Allen wrench for use in the field.

Dave Hartman

[David H. Hartman]

Here is the key...

5/32 hex Dogging Key.

There may be a more elegant device but this one will fit on one's key ring and serve tighten and remove retaining screws for RRS camera L-brackets, Wimberley P-10 ~ P50 lens plates and probably most similar Arca-Swiss brackets and plates.

One on the key ring, one in the camera bag, one in the glove box of your car or truck and you'll be all set.

Dave

[MFloyd]

Maybe RRS could finally eliminate the idiotic requirement to have a hex key in order to attach and remove their various plates while they're improving that L-plate? Too much to ask, probably...?

The new L-plate from RRS seems to have a slot for a hex key:

[Eddie Draaisma]

The new L-plate from RRS seems to have a slot for a hex key:

Yes, but this L-plate requires the left strap wire with black plastic insert to be removed from the camera straplet, at least if one wants the vertical part flush against the body. Not funny at all for people like me who remove the L-plate on a regular basis.

There is another L-plate announced without this annoyance, but also without the hex key insert:

[Bruno Schroder]

The Novoflex multi-tool is quite handy: 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys, slot screwdriver, cross-slot screwdriver and Torx T25.

[David H. Hartman]

The Novoflex multi-tool is quite handy: 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys, slot screwdriver, cross-slot screwdriver and Torx T25.

If I did the math right 5/32" = 3.97mm.

Dave

[Erik Lund]

If I did the math right 5/32" = 3.97mm.

Dave

Using Inch keys for Metric hexagon fasteners is absolutely not recommended and should be avoided! You will either ruin the key, the screw or both.

[David H. Hartman]

Using Inch keys for Metric hexagon fasteners is absolutely not recommended and should be avoided! You will either ruin the key, the screw or both.

Are you saying the 5/32" or 4mm hex key is not really the size it is designated as? If the 5/32" key is really 3.97mm then it's only 0.03mm under size.

Dave

[Erik Lund]

Due to how Mechanical Engineering works it's always about tolerances,,, You can't judge such measurements based on Nominal values.



The interesting measurement from the strength point of view is the Edge measurement not the Size especially with the now almost obsolete hexagon shape, now splines are used instead since they are far superior especially because of the Edge being so critical but also since the resist wear much better - Anyway,,,


The Edge tolerances are the factor, if you look up these you will find that worst case Edge for Metric key  S min is 3,95mm and in an Metric screw it is a difference of 4.58 - 4.44 mm = 0.14mm ie it wobbles a little but it works,,,


For an Inch key S=4mm, the minimum is 3.9mm and in an Metric screw the Edge measurement worst case is; 4.58 - 4.40mm = 0.2mm of missing material!


The difference is thus about 0.06mm

[armando_m]

The wait over here is for an l-plate. Lloyd Chambers (www.diglloyd.com) fully endorses the 2-piece RRS BD850-L (even before he had a camera available to test it, go figure).  However it requires the left strap triangle-shaped wire with plastic insert to be removed, making it a useless pita for people like me who do remove the plate on longer missions without a tripod.

And to think that I modified my D800 L-bracket to also attach to the strap loop hole on the left
Yes it is more elaborate to remove but it does provide additional support rather than just attaching to the bottom of the camera

I did it because my D800 chassis broke where the bottom plate is attached with 4 little screws and I do not want to rely only on my repair to hold any torsion on the camera while mounted on the tripod, wonder why this is done for the D850

[pluton]

Based on only my own limited experience with hex head fasteners, they would be my last choice for strength and durability.
The slot in a well-made stainless steel or other high grade steel screw provides for more than enough tightening torque.

Take a look at the fasteners used on the Sachtler head removable QR plate used for heavy $100,000 cinema cameras with $150,000 lenses attached:  Slot head screws, usually 2.