Do you still use an "obsolete" camera?

[null]

That is exactly correct- I'll check Lightroom and Photoshop output to see what they are doing.

[Erik Lund]

19cm? Is this by addition of the K1 ring, or are you talking about something else? Because I'd love to be able to focus a bit closer.

The focusing helicoid allows for extra extension, so take the lens apart cut a bit off the end stop for close focusing, so the focus ring gets an added rotation, extend the guide for the aperture, out back together.


I think there must be images from our last meet up at JAs place, I did one of Bjørns lenses like this.

Here it is;

http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,5202.msg82269.html#msg82269


The stop is on the silver ring I'm holding onto, I'm cutting the guide,,,

[KenP]

Thought this might be the "right" thread to ask a question pertaining to old digital cameras. If not, please move my query where appropriate. I am pondering a purchase of a digital camera. Never owned one. I shot some "snaps" with film more than 20 years ago but have not touched it since. My neighbor has two "old" digital cameras for sale. I am ready to give it a try and see what its all about. He has a Nikon D2h and a D2xs. I have read a bit here on this forum in the last day or two. Not much on these models as I guess they are quite obsolete. A couple of Tokina lenses go with the sale. 16-50F2.8 and 50-135F2.8. One it seems has lower resolution at 4mp and one has 12mp. Not sure how this translates into real world shooting or for that matter, how the files are processed in the computer. I did try them out at his house but I am really not sure what it is I am differentiating?. Both feel great in the hands and amazingly responsive. Of course, I am comparing to a film experience many moons ago. He is offering a good price and I trust him so I will buy one of them. Thought on which way to lean and what if any are the major differences? Thank you.

Ken

[Bjørn Rørslett]

My advice is the D2Xs. It was an excellent camera in its time and still can deliver high quality images. The 12MPix might not sound extensive by today's standards, but properly processed you can easily print double-page spreads from its files. I had one as my workhorse for several years before the arrival of the D3 and later D3s/D3X, and still keep a D2H for studio snaps to go on the web, plus a D2X that once in a while is with me as a spare body.

[KenP]

Thank you Bjorn. I asked simply because he knows little about these cameras. His daughter is the "pro" and has since moved on from the house and these models and left him to do what he wants with them. Incidentally, there is also a Nikon V1 to consider as well. I did not at first even look at it, however that model is an option as well.  All seem to be in the "obsolete" category but will have no impact on my skill set as they will all outperform me.

Ken

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Don't write off the 1V1. It is a little gem if you learn how to make it follow your intentions and not the other way around

I have several of them and use them quite often.

[Thomas G]

I agree on probably not just stepping over the 1V1. Widely useable, small, lightwight, good IQ.
I carry an AW1 version in my all day bag.

[KenP]

Perhaps I will see if he is willing to "package" a D2xs with the V1……I get to play with both Perhaps a better option than the D2h and the D2xs. He did by the way offer me those two D's in a "package" but seemed redundant to me.

Ken

[KenP]

Also on the V1….Lens options? He has some old Nikkors (105 f2.5 and 200 F4). I think you need an adaptor? Not sure how it all works but he does not have any other lens for the V1. I may consider it but need to do read some on the model.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

If forced to select just a single lens for the 1 V1, that would be the 18.5 mm f/1.8 1 Nikkor CX. Add any the zoom lens such as 6.7-13/3.5-5.6 or one of the 10-30 mm versions and you are pretty well covered.

If you wish to use 'F' mount lenses, the FT-1 adapter by Nikon is the best, but it is not cheap and for basic functionality with manual lenses, probably an overkill anyway. In the latter case, you can get much simpler, and cheaper, adapters off eBay. Do note the focal lengths of the ordinary Nikkors  with F mount are very long for the small format of the 1 Nikon cameras. Thus the native CX lenses would be the recommended starting point.

[Roland Vink]

Very good sample image of the [AI] 20mm 3.5 up close!

This lens is fairly easy to modify for even more close focusing, down to 19 cm,,,

I'd like mine to focus closer, even if it's just 0.25m. There have been a few occasions when I found the 0.3m limit a bit too far.

[KenP]

Bjorn; how is the D2h with IR? I may want to mess a little with IR as well. There are lens filters I can get to start with as opposed to conversion? The reason I ask is I may end up with both the D2xs and the D2h. We have discovered the D2h has an error message after turning on or first shutter firing. So....the seller is essentially going to throw the D2h in for next to nothing. It does seem to be problem free after that first click. Still looking at the v1 but it is small and no "native" lens. Have not ruled it out but the D2xs I am buying for certain. Not sure yet on the D2h or the v1.

Ken

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The D2H can do IR natively, but IR response is underwhelming to put the matter correctly. The D2X/XS incarnations cannot do IR at all unless you accept atrocious image quality.

Don't write off the 1V1 yet. A native 10-30 zoom lens for it is inexpensive.

[KenP]

Okay. Perhaps I will throw the D2h IR thought out the window for now.  I have taken home both the D2xs and the D2h with the previously mentioned Tokina Lenses and have played with them taking pictures around the house and outside a bit. I cannot find much difference between the two just screwing around as such.

The V1….I cannot play with it other than hold it and look at the controls. Without a lens, it is hard to evaluate. I do find it small and not particularly comfortable in the hands. You are selling me on it of sorts so what is the catch. Is it simply the portability and ease of use as opposed to the D2xs? Image quality? Without any digital experience and being away from a camera for more than 20 years, it will probably take some time to catch up to the capability of theses devices if I get there at all.

The D2xs with essentially a 16-135 focal length ( I have read about the "crop factor" (which to date I do not understand yet) gives me a 24-200 if compared to standard 135 film?

If I was to go with a V1…You suggested a 18.5 and or a 10-30. What is the crop here and how does the perspective change?

[David H. Hartman]

Replacing the 4.1MP D2H with a 12MP D300s was a great relief to me. There is not much room to crop with the D2H. The dynamic range is limited. The auto white balance didn't work that well. The high ISO noise was poor. I never owned the D2Hs but what I saw on the net the D2Hs had improved high ISO noise. I wouldn't get the D2H myself. I sold mine in clean condition with smooth wear for $185.00 (USD). It was a huge relief to move to the D300s in every way except the focus screen and viewfinder wasn't as good for manual focus lenses. The dynamic range of the D2H is quite limited by noise.

I would not get the D2H for IR. You have to use a filter over the lens that is black and you don't have live view so the filter comes off every time to compose and focus. Then it goes back on to shoot.

Dave Hartman