NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: BW on March 19, 2016, 16:41:46
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A couple of days ago I picked up this lens to use for portrait work. I knew some of the issues with this lens beforehand, but I went ahead and bought it anyway. CA end front focus are known issues. The first one is relatively easy to deal with, but the latter can be more problematic, especially if the front focus falls outside the range of AF-microadjust in the camera. Overall I am satisfied with color, sharpness and the other features of this lens, but this is a lens who beg to be used wide open, thus the AF need to be spot on. Which it was on my Df. The D750 gave me a slightly front focused image so I had to give it +5 micro adjustment, but the D4s was way off. Even after +20 the image was slightly off at f2. When focusing on the eye I barely reach focus when using f2,4 and up. I know this seems like a problem that is not relevant for the majority of people on this planet, but I´m asking for advice anyway. Should this lens be sent to nikon for adjustment or should I try to adjust for this when picking the point of focus? In normal portrait range this is possible, but at infinity it might possess a bigger problem. What would you do? The first picture is taken at f5,6 the last at f2,2. Minimal PP.
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I have both DC lenses of which i prefer the 105,
its not a walkabout lens, good portrait and landscape if you like the look, i do
needs good light i find
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1550/25883614806_61cbce5810_o.jpg)
i snapped this portrait, to reply to your post, dont tell her i did :o
Df @f/2.2
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Congratulations on the new lens. Personally, I would send camera+lens in to avoid any more frustration. Properly adjusted, you will have a more positive relationship with the lens.
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Congrats, you'll enjoy the lens. I like the 135 DC very much. Here's my daughter today with the ancient D1X. The soft focus effect achieved by shooting at f/2 with DC at R2.8.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1534/25277388494_6fd255a817_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/25609667480_c1cb35769e_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1639/25910217895_e4093daae7_o.jpg)
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Congratulations on the new lens. Personally, I would send camera+lens in to avoid any more frustration. Properly adjusted, you will have a more positive relationship with the lens.
Good point! It's like fishing. Never use a bait in which you dont have 100% faith.
Nice picture Fons! Peter, thanks for showing me the effect of soft focus. I have just played with it a few times so I havent tested all the features yet.
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Peter, thanks to you, I definitely want the lens now!
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Børge, I would strongly recommend you to send the camera and lens to the NIkon service. I had my D7000 I used and my current D750 calibrated along with the lens at the Nikon service. Since then, there have been no need for any micro adjustment. And the "green dot" is reliable when I use my Nikkor-Q C 200/4.0 and Ai Nikkor 20/4.0 at any distance.
The problem of the uncalibrated body is that the micro adjustment value is not universal at all focusing distances.
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I bought a used 135mm DC several years ago. Love the images.
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That's a beautiful dog Thomas and it shows off all the qualities of my next purchase :)
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A general note on these DC lenses: they really ought not to have AF capability built-in, as the AF circuits get fooled all the time by the behaviour of the spherical aberration resulting from the DC feature. You can easily observe, by using LiveView, how the sagittal and meridional planes come into focus differently for the same point in the frame. This is accompanied by some differential colour fringing of the longitudinal kind as well.
Actually it is better to focus manually, as our eyes are accommodating these optical aberrations much better than the camera.
(I only own the 105 DC, but have used both DC lenses extensively)
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A general note on these DC lenses: they really ought not to have AF capability built-in, as the AF circuits get fooled all the time by the behaviour of the spherical aberration resulting from the DC feature. You can easily observe, by using LiveView, how the sagittal and meridional planes come into focus differently for the same point in the frame. This is accompanied by some differential colour fringing of the longitudinal kind as well.
Actually it is better to focus manually, as our eyes are accommodating these optical aberrations much better than the camera.
(I only own the 105 DC, but have used both DC lenses extensively)
That's a good reminder, Bjorn. Even the lens manual tells that AF should not be used when going for soft focus effect. The wording (or sentence syntax) in the manual is a bit ambiguous whether MF should be used always when DC is set off-neutral.
I prefer the lens to have AF though. It is a compact tele lens when DC is set to neutral, and it focuses quite quickly. At least for me the lens sees a lot of use besides portraiture. For my use it is a versatile lens, since the size/weight/reach sits nicely between 85/1.4D and 200/2VR2.
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By all means, if you can achieve reliable AF focus, then the arguments set forth above are moot. For my own 105 DC I don't bother with AF any more as I cannot trust it focuses where I want, and making a fine-tune for every occasion simply isn't worth the efforts.
Understand how DC works is a major challenge on both lenses. My advice is to find a long fence with fine pattern to it, set the camera on a tripod and focus the lens with DC set to 0 and an angle of incidence of 45 degrees. The make test sequences in which DC is systematically moved to the front or rear, and in step with the aperture or not. You'll find the front and rear influence is dramatically different.
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crazy. just look at the details on the kid's brow :o :o :o
and the peach fuzz on the nose as well.
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I would like to show my appreciation to all those who posted here and made me purchase this lens ::)
The only reason why I didn't go for the 105mm is because it's rather near my beloved 85/1.4 and I do posses the 105/2.5 and 105/4 micro. I know, I know, the 105DC is a different beast but my thoughts were that the 135DC would offer me the same qualities but of a focal length that I don't have at all :)
I will play with the DC feature a bit and will come back here with my blurry findings ;)
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Congratulations Jakov! You will make it shine with or without DC 8)
On my list as well,,,
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OK, attached are two non-scientific snapshots of my office banana tree :)
I set the aperture at f/2.0 and I turned the focus ring to the closest distance of 1.1m.
Although the booklet accompanying the lens states clearly that the DC feature should be used according to the aperture set on the lens, I dismissed it and DCed to the maximum position. This is the first time I didn't follow the set rules ;D
What I immediately noticed was that the focus distance changes as you rotate the DC ring.
In other words you can get closer with the DC ring at Rear and you need to move backwards if you rotate the DC ring to Front.
So even I had tried a scientific approach and put the camera on a tripod, I would have had difficulty performing the test at the closest distance from the subject :)
Another thing that I noticed was that I am steadily falling in love with this lens and it's creamy bokeh :)
The two photos attached depict the DC ring set to R and F at the nearest focus distance and at F/2.0.
To be continued...
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So the DoF changes with the R and F setting even though f/2 does not change. Hmmm......
Jakov's first foto looks very Heligon-ish.
However, I'm still back there trying to figure out what are the sagittal and meridional planes of focus. ;D
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OK, attached are two non-scientific snapshots of my office banana tree :)
To be continued...
Oh My God. You have a Banana tree! I hope you have a solid insurance cause Bananas on this Board have Protected Status........ 8)
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Congrats with the new lens Jakov :)
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That's a beautiful dog Thomas and it shows off all the qualities of my next purchase :)
You buy a DOG? Wow. Does it have F-mount?
Now I read more and know you bought my brother's favorite lens.
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It's a known fact that I am a 135 f2 DC slut.
But I use mine exclusively in studio for practical reasons. I often shoot at f2.
my copy back focussed and Nikon re-set it in combination with the body. I know of several copies that did BF rather than FF
Couldnt be more happy with what I get - though it could have been a tad shorter (or my studio a tad longer)
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Succes on the purchase Jakov, I am sure you 'll make good use of it ;)
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Erik, what are you waiting for? :)
Andrea, I am not sure that the depth of filed changes but the focusing distance to the subject. And as a consequence the depth of field changes the further away you are from the subject.
Almass, don't you know that we are all gone bananas :)
Børge, thank you!
Frank, I didn't buy your brother's favorite lens. I bought a brand new one:)
Elsa, I hope to become a 135 DC slut just like you are ;D
John, thank you!
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However, I'm still back there trying to figure out what are the sagittal and meridional planes of focus. ;D
This might help or confuse. :) ...
http://dougkerr.net/Pumpkin/articles/Astigmatism.pdf
I wonder what the "/Pumpkin/" reference is about?
Here is a lens test chart that might offer amusement when testing the DC feature of Nikon's DC lenses. Few seemed interested the first time around so few will probably be interested this time but the chart is FREE and one can print as many as needed. It can be spread out over a large area as compared to a focus chart that's a poster size so must be photographed at a close distance. I found this chart more useful than the USAF 1951 chart of years ago. Anyway here is the chart...
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,3090.0.html
Dave
sagittal = as the arrow flies. That should be of no help.
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So the DoF changes with the R and F setting even though f/2 does not change. Hmmm......
When set to R the close focus limit reduces, and the background background blurs are more spread out and softer.
When set to F the close focus limit increases, and the background blurs are smaller with a sharply defined edge (foreground is soft instead).
That explains the difference in apparent DOF.
When set to R beyond the aperture setting, a soft focus effect are obtained, which is what we see here ... lovely results :)
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David, thanks for the chart. I printed it out and I noticed that my sample auto focuses to the dot on the Df!
Thank you Roland! How can a banana not be lovely :)
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Jakov, congrats on the lens. I am happy to hear that it tests out spot on :) . Almost bought it several times but went with the 105 f2. I keep thinking that Nikon will bring out a new version. I could have used the extra 30mm on the recent trip.
Keep the images coming .
Bananas, I have about eight trees left (two varieties) and they give me almost a constant supply. I really like the colours of the 'food' pod. I guess I could post images of the Pineapples but those take a heck of a long time to grow ;) .
Tom
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Cheers to all the new sluts on the block.
May you all enjoy the 135
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Thanks Tom. You are blessed to have an almost constant supply of bananas. My humble trees don't provide me with any :-\
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Bananas, I have about eight trees left (two varieties) and they give me almost a constant supply. I really like the colours of the 'food' pod. I guess I could post images of the Pineapples but those take a heck of a long time to grow ;) .
Tom
Apparently Bjørn would insist on the next NG event in Goa...
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Too hot for me. Your bananas are safe ...
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When set to R the close focus limit reduces, and the background background blurs are more spread out and softer.
When set to F the close focus limit increases, and the background blurs are smaller with a sharply defined edge (foreground is soft instead).
That explains the difference in apparent DOF.
When set to R beyond the aperture setting, a soft focus effect are obtained, which is what we see here ... lovely results :)
Roland, I noticed that you didn't list an alternate hood for the 135DC on your website?
I am not certain that the built in hood is sufficient, or am I wrong?
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However, I did shoot a little with Elsa's copy of the 135 DC. Nice lens and very smooth drawing of the background.
This is just a test shot from her garden. (With my Df)
Jakov: the built-in hood is on the short side, but on the other hand, unlikely to be forgotten. HN-20 or similar will fit nicely.
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Too hot for me. Your bananas are safe ...
Nothing too hot for you....... 8)
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Nothing too hot for you....... 8)
On the other hand, slightly less exciting than a Banana leaf with the 135D WO........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/Duke_1/_DSC2765_zpse27a8ba7.jpg)
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Roland, I noticed that you didn't list an alternate hood for the 135DC on your website?
I am not certain that the built in hood is sufficient, or am I wrong?
I probably should list the HN-20 that Bjørn mentioned. This hood is for the AIS 85/1.4. The overall depth is greater than the built-in hood for all 135/2 versions, and it is more solid, but it also flares out much more so does not offer optimal shading. Among the Nikon hoods this is the only practical alternative - other Nikkors with 72mm filter size are long lenses with built-in hoods or wide-angle lenses where the hood is far too short. There may be other third party screw-in hoods which are suitable.
The built-in hood for the 135DC is better than nothing, but on the short side. The hood for the 105DC is similar but the front element is deeply recessed so overall that lens is better shaded than the 135DC. Both hoods screw firmly in place when extended, not like the wobbling slide-out affairs of the AIS versions. Note the threads are very finely pitched and prone to cross threading so take care not to jam it.
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Don't overlook lens hoods from manufacturers other than Nikon.
Also consider padding out the HN20 hood with a spacer. If you have a few old 72mm filters with ruined glass, you can make your own spacers - just remove the glass from the filter and pad out the lens with the glassless filter ring(s) before adding the HN20 hood to get extra shading.
In respect of hoods from the other manufacturers, see what is around in the 72mm screw sizes for both 135mm and 150mm focal length lenses if you want a better shading hood for the 135mm DC lens. A hood for a 150mm lens can always be slightly reduced in length with a Dremel if vignetting is encountered. In the case of Nikon hoods, they are pretty conservative, so quite often the hood for the next longest focal length usually will work OK on a lens with the next shortest focal length if not too many filters are between it and the lens. A step up ring can also help use a hood from another lens if you are not stepping up too much.
I buy up lens hoods from various makers at photographic flea markets for this reason. I am brand agnostic with respect to lens hoods - so long as I can screw or clamp them onto my lenses.
I probably should list the HN-20 that Bjørn mentioned. This hood is for the AIS 85/1.4. The overall depth is greater than the built-in hood for all 135/2 versions, and it is more solid, but it also flares out much more so does not offer optimal shading. Among the Nikon hoods this is the only practical alternative - other Nikkors with 72mm filter size are long lenses with built-in hoods or wide-angle lenses where the hood is far too short. There may be other third party screw-in hoods which are suitable.
The built-in hood for the 135DC is better than nothing, but on the short side. The hood for the 105DC is similar but the front element is deeply recessed so overall that lens is better shaded than the 135DC. Both hoods screw firmly in place when extended, not like the wobbling slide-out affairs of the AIS versions. Note the threads are very finely pitched and prone to cross threading so take care not to jam it.
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The extension part of HN-12 (originally designed for the Nikon PL filter and the gel filter holder AF-1) has 72mm threads on both sides and could be used as the hood by stacking. I'm not sure if the light baffle inside the extension would cause vignetting, though.
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These extension hoods vary slightly in their threads. I have units that will not fit together while other do just fine. Apparently it is the front threads that differ as they all fit the polariser or gel filter holder mounted in single.
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Thank you all for your responses. I am a bit surprised that the built-in hood for the 135DC is less useful than a hood designed for an 85mm lens - HN-20?
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I think the same applies for the built-in hood of the 105/1.8, it's rather short...
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That's why I attach a longer screw-in hood to my 105/1.8. Currently using a third-party hood from my lens hood bin.
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Thanks Bjørn, I use some alternatives, the stepped down to HN-7 or an extended version of the HN-24. Is there something like a maximum length?
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It is a design choice they have to make when they design a lens, you would have less focus ring if the hood was longer,,,
Anyway, the metal lens hoods from Heliopan ( -Not Heligon ::) ) are build very similar to a Nikon K5- ring; So a 52mm will have both male and female threads and can be staked if needed.
I propose to try a long Heliopan 72mm for you lens Jakov
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BTW, the 105mm 2 DC has a deeply recessed front element so the lens hood is more shady ;)
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These extension hoods vary slightly in their threads. I have units that will not fit together while other do just fine. Apparently it is the front threads that differ as they all fit the polariser or gel filter holder mounted in single.
I didn't know that. My two samples fits together with no problem...
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I think must have 5 or so, and only 2 of them allow stacking.
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As well as the long Heliopan 72mm hood, the B&W Model 960 (72mm) should work, as well as the longer 72mm Chinese lens hoods advertised on Ebay. The latter are relatively inexpensive and ones that I have tried have been quite satisfactory. At under $20 each, there is less at stake if you go on to shorten them if vignetting arises.
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Your absolutely right Hugh!
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Testing the blur circles 8)
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Jakov: your lens is dirty and needs a good spring cleaning ...
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Why not start a thread? General maintenance or spring cleaning of camera gear? Not as ambitious as opening lenses, but the day to day maintenance. Or is that to basic for this lot? :)
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Why not start a thread? General maintenance or spring cleaning of camera gear? Not as ambitious as opening lenses, but the day to day maintenance. Or is that to basic for this lot? :)
Very good idea Børge!
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Why not start a thread? General maintenance or spring cleaning of camera gear? Not as ambitious as opening lenses, but the day to day maintenance. Or is that to basic for this lot? :)
yes please please
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Yeah, Yeah, Yeah.......Spring Cleaning (Submerged by popular request) for my 135D.......Blow Dry to follow 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/Duke_1/135D-Submerged_zpsggid8gux.jpg)
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That'll take due care of any external grime and dust. However, to get it cleaned properly inside perhaps it should be submerged?
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That'll take due care of any external grime and dust. However, to get it cleaned properly inside perhaps it should be submerged?
This is before "submersion".......
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This is after "submersion".......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/Duke_1/41ad4cd1-a976-46c0-b2b8-ab54317e165a_zpsc7v0mnmw.jpg)
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I solemnly declare that I adore this lens!
This is a front focus shot.
It goes without saying that the lens is extremely sharp 8)
[Edit]
The second shot that I am just adding is the same seen with some parts in the plane of sharpness.
Shot at f/2.0, the DC set all the way to F.
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Jakov: your lens is dirty and needs a good spring cleaning ...
Bjørn, makes me laugh all the time ;D
I wonder where all that dirt comes from a brand new lens...
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I solemnly declare that I adore this lens!
This is a front focus shot.
It goes without saying that the lens is extremely sharp 8)
[Edit]
The second shot that I am just adding is the same seen with some parts in the plane of sharpness.
Shot at f/2.0, the DC set all the way to F.
You are quite an "umjetnik" Jakov. I LOVE that blur circle color orgasm.
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The pictures in #58 are very impressionistic. Great Jakov!!
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I solemnly declare that I adore this lens!
This is a front focus shot.
It goes without saying that the lens is extremely sharp 8)
[Edit]
The second shot that I am just adding is the same seen with some parts in the plane of sharpness.
Shot at f/2.0, the DC set all the way to F.
what on earth did you do to the lens! ;D ;D
nice colours :)
perhaps you understand why I adore my lens too - not perfect - just perfect for me.
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A super bokeh, Jakov :D
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Sten's Croatian is impressive! How can I not create orgasmic photos using Elsa's slutty lens and surrounded by flowers!
Thank you Børge! Must e the Asian frenzy that caught up on me :)
Elsa, you are perfect, you know that! I didn't do anythign to the lens, I just do not know better ::)
Thanks, John! The lens has special bokeh without a doubt :)
Here is another take from the same series. I did try the 135DC in all sort of positions and settings :)
More to come...
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I have no idea what you did - but I love it!
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Elsa, try it out 8)
F/2.0 and set the DC beyond 5.6, all the way to the letter F ;)
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We all know that the light is great early in the morning or late in the day.
The shadows are longer and the contrasts are mellow.
A true pleasure is when you mount the 135DC on a Df and have a bunch flowers to photograph :)
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Wow, wow, just wow!
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Jakov, great work with the new lens!
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Thank you Hans and Chip!
I really appreciate it!
Of course the 135DC could be used on other subjects and not only flowers. In fact it can easily be used as a multi-purpose walk-around lens.
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Jakov, maybe not as exciting as a new lens arriving ;) but I am really enjoying your getting to know your new lens :) . Some adventurous , fun and really good images.
Many thanks for sharing your images.
Tom
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Dear Tom,
Thank you so much for your kind words! I am glad you are enjoying the images that I have posted.
Yours, Jakov
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Jakov, seeing your flower shots triggers me to grab my 135 and go outside. The weather is not very cooperative, however. :(
Nice results!
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Joost don't talk to me about this weather and wind havoc that is hitting NL for months. It just doesn't stop. I wanted to go to Keukenhof tomorrow (King's Day, probably not so busy) and play with the 135DC but looking at the weather forecast I think I will remain in bed...
Thanks!
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Impressive results with the lens, Jakov.
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Nice work, Jakov. Here are a few grabs from yesterday.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1684/26141816914_2c4b687b55_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1574/26654601202_b0e163d9bf_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1514/26681098561_9f51d9ac68_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1581/26748032285_56469267dc_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1492/26722504436_a093940580_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1583/26654599652_b6a83f84ae_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1652/26748047105_ecb20a5655_o.jpg)
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Thank you John and Peter!
Which body did you use Peter?
Today I took a stroll with my son. Lovely weather, no wind, something I cannot remember happening for a long time.
Almost got arrested in the process of taking pictures with Df and 135DC 8)
Where is this world leading to?
Two different approaches to the same subject attached.
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Nice splashes of color, Jakov!
I used the antique D2Hs :P
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you really make the lens sing!
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Jakov arrested? what were you shooting ? something else besides flowers ?
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Thank you Peter, Elsa and Armando! Much appreciated!
Armando, it happens that I was walking through a high security street which passes by many embassies. I was spotted taking photos close to the Chinese Embassy. The Security Officer from the Chinese Embassy called the police and reported that someone was taking photos of the Embassy?!?!? So, just like in the movies, a police patrol car stopped next to the side-walk where I was having fun with my son. Two police officers stopped us, and interrogated both of us. Why are you taking photos of the Embassy? Why are you here? Do you have an ID? etc...
They asked me to take a look at the photos that I took. They checked my ID. Explained why they were so suspicious, etc.
Attached you will find The Hague Bandits in action :)
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Jakov, I love what you're doing with the 135mm. A perfect match for you!
Is it actually illegal to take pictures of the embassy, or were they just trying to put the fear in you?
The same can happen here when photographing government buildings, airports, bridges, etc. though it is not illegal to do so.
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Charlie, no, I wasn't taking photos of the Embassy ::) Which the police officers saw for themselves when I showed them the photos on my camera. They just saw me taking photos but wanted to be sure :D
Thank you Charlie for your kind words! I am enjoying this great portrait lens :)
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Nice images Jakov, that lens is a real bokeh machine!
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Two different approaches to the same subject attached.
So many photos I've seen shot using 135 DC, but none like yours Jakov. Your photos are very inspiring.
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;D Jakov - I have also been "detained" before - my partner and I entered a National key point at night (an oil refinery), (also to take photos) as the gate was left "open" after other cars exited - we drive right in - but they chief security would have had to explain why it was possible for us to obtain access - so he had little choice but to let us go. I climb fences regularly .
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Thank you Tristin! Yes, it's a bokeh machine but with a twist and that is the DC feature. All other lenses have a set character for bokeh. The only thing that you can do is change the aperture (well most of the time). I really like the DC feature and the possibility to create the bokeh to you liking.
Anirban, you are most kind! It feels good when someone tells you that your images are inspiring :)
Elsa had I only climbed fences and intruded on Chinese property being the bandit that I am. I wasn't even looking at them. I was a guy with a camera on a public road. It's just that some roads are more public than others :D
No big deal apart from the fact that my son was with me who probably got a bit startled. The officers were very polite and in apologetic mood since it was obvious to them that we weren't a security threat, but they had to respond to the call. Who pays for such high security standards? Is it the Dutch Government or do the embassies themselves pay for additional security provided by their hosts...
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Elsa had I only climbed fences and intruded on Chinese property being the bandit that I am. I wasn't even looking at them. I was a guy with a camera on a public road. It's just that some roads are more public than others :D
No big deal apart from the fact that my son was with me who probably got a bit startled. The officers were very polite and in apologetic mood since it was obvious to them that we weren't a security threat, but they had to respond to the call. Who pays for such high security standards? Is it the Dutch Government or do the embassies themselves pay for additional security provided by their hosts...
I dont know about others - but in SA the USA embassy is totally neurotic where security is concerned. The have so many security systems in place - and at the hint of any trouble anywhere on the globe - they tend to shut down - shove everyone out - and secure the premises. Wonder what they are keeping there...
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Thank you Tristin! Yes, it's a bokeh machine but with a twist and that is the DC feature. All other lenses have a set character for bokeh. The only thing that you can do is change the aperture (well most of the time). I really like the DC feature and the possibility to create the bokeh to you liking.
Anirban, you are most kind! It feels good when someone tells you that your images are inspiring :)
Elsa had I only climbed fences and intruded on Chinese property being the bandit that I am. I wasn't even looking at them. I was a guy with a camera on a public road. It's just that some roads are more public than others :D
No big deal apart from the fact that my son was with me who probably got a bit startled. The officers were very polite and in apologetic mood since it was obvious to them that we weren't a security threat, but they had to respond to the call. Who pays for such high security standards? Is it the Dutch Government or do the embassies themselves pay for additional security provided by their hosts...
I live in the middle of Bern's embassy district. Every other major house here is an embassy. I have been questioned multiple times when shooting cherry blossoms or other flowers, but mostly in a friendly tone. I understand that people sticking a tele lens through the embassy's fences would be slightly suspicious, but I have never been close to doing that, the atmosphere emanating from these buildings already serves to inhibit such thoughts :D
Here, I think that a considerable amount of public money is used to provide security to foreign statesmen. I recall the instance when they received a Saudi here in Bern, they shut off two major streets for an hour or so and even public buses had to make a detour. But I think the security personnel standing around the embassies in little cabins are paid by the embassies themselves.
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Of course I brought the 135DC with me to Scotland.
Whilst it's a bit on the long side for walking the streets of Edinburgh and capturing the beauty of the architecture, it is magical in and among flowers :)
Here are some results from the West Princess Street Gardens:
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Super, Jakov !
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What a stunning instrument!!! Breath-taking images from an awesome lens.... Thank you for sharing these images and pearls of practical wisdom.
I am now determined to acquire either the 105 or 135 DC.
Given my professional background in the sciences, and not least systematics and taxonomy, I have been doing quite some research into these models and the other superb Nikkors. And here follows a couple of nuggets that some readers may not be aware of. These design factors (that include at least one patent) also have a direct bearing on the Noct-Nikkor legacy that fortunately still persists in Nikon (hence I also posted overlapping info in the thread on the 58mm f1.4):
Last month, in the thread on Old School Nikon Primes, I mentioned the enduring legacy of the Noct-Nikkor in a book I'd just acquired....And, well, latterly I found some interesting insights into the 58 f1.4 that interface with these DC Nikkor primes. This book being 'Eyes of Nikon. Art meets Technology makes History' Published 2014 for 80 Anniversary of Nikon ISBN 978 4 904959 12 1
This book devotes quite some copy [pp 34-39] to the goals, and not least artistic passion, motivating the design of the specialist Nikkors. They try and accommodate 3 dimensions of the imaged subjects into 2-d Flat-Land (coopting the term of graphic designer Edward Tufte). Which matters here can be summed up in Sato's words of "an entirely different method of appraisal" of the optical performance of a lens; it extends beyond its sharpness at a singular point of focus, and includes colour rendering (an ability we all know where lens differ). This philosophy underlies the quest to refine the prowess of a lens in its defocus envelopes bounding the plane of focus, i.e. bokeh. The attributes underlying the 58mm f1.4G are not alone WRT this quest. This philosophy also underlies the 35 f1.4G and reaches its prowess in the Defocus Control Nikkors, which use a patented mechanism that allows one to manipulate spherical aberration. The design challenges centred on changing parameters of spherical aberration - alone - but without increasing any other aberrations. No small feat!! And it just so happens this is US Patent No 5 841 590 to Nikon Corp (filed 27 August 1997, awarded 1998) which spells out the inventor as one Haruo Sato. And Sato is the principal historian of One Thousand and One Nights devoted to origins of key Nikon innovations [with the essay on the 135 f2AF-D DC written by Kouichi Oshita http://www.nikkor.com/story/0032/ ]
To quote on the status of the Defocus methodology - "Finally, the currently available Nikon's range of medium telephoto lenses is to be brought to perfection. The successful development of a similar lineup as in the age of manual lenses owed much to the innovative rear-focusing design in AF 85mm f/1.8. This innovation was combined with a function for controlling the defocusing characteristics in the DC 135mm f/2 as the first attempt, which helped to successfully make the high-speed medium telephoto lens much more attractive. In the tale of Noct NIKKOR (Tale Sixteen), I explained the Noct as "the only NIKKOR lens that added values to the imaging characteristics" but this lens would take the concept even further, I'm sure." cf Tale Thirty-Two
Moreover, "When an optical designer friend ran simulations and analyses on the design [WRT to R&D of these DeFocus Nikkors], he discovered another clever trick: Nikon designed the red end of the spectrum to focus in a slightly different plane to make skin look even better." cf http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/135mm-f2-dc.htm
And so thank you all for kindly sharing of images and tests and photographic passions in these fascinating threads on NikonGear about the special lenses. in my naivete, I have come to humbly appreciate that there's so much more to the optical prowess of a lens besides its MTF curves etc :-) Long live these De-Focus Nikkors
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7216/26287820743_29b459d19b_o.jpg)
If you know the trick it is a joy the creative possibilities fast lenses and the DC lenses in particular will give you
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Of course I brought the 135DC with me to Scotland.
Whilst it's a bit on the long side for walking the streets of Edinburgh and capturing the beauty of the architecture, it is magical in and among flowers :)
Here are some results from the West Princess Street Gardens:
Breathtaking shots. Thank you for sharing and teaching us, Jakov!
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Joost don't talk to me about this weather and wind havoc that is hitting NL for months. It just doesn't stop. I wanted to go to Keukenhof tomorrow (King's Day, probably not so busy) and play with the 135DC but looking at the weather forecast I think I will remain in bed...
Thanks!
I so love Keukenhof! (What photographer wouldn't!). I'm jealous that you can simply pop down to Keukenhof like that. Visited it for the first time in 1965 and love going back over the decades. Apparently, with the DC, you can do much without even having to resort to Photoshop! It's on my shortlist, as well. But trying to figure out which-105 or 135. Recommendations from the group?
TIA,,
Dan
Santa Barbara, CA
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I freely admit my partiality for the 105/2 DC, but either DC lens will provide excellent shooting experiences.
Be careful with their slide-out hoods though. They are designed to be locked by turning them in very fine threads at full extension, which sometimes work well, other times creates troubles by cross-threading. If you are not careful, they might even lock permanently due to cross-threading.
The A/M ring on both lenses can break due to material fatigue and at least in case for the 105 DC, this means the lens will split into two parts. My first copy of the 105 DC died in this manner on me at a mountain top in Czech Republic - I forced the halves together with strong sticky tape found in my backpack. The lens thereafter worked in AF only as the focusing collar was stuck. Nikon Repair had trouble getting spare parts and advised against servicing the lens as this easily could cost more than the lens was worth. I tossed the damaged lens away and later got a new sample. On this I taped down the A/M switching ring permanently (in M position) as I already had done with the 200/4 ED-IF Micro, another lens afflicted by the A/M ring syndrome.
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Bjørn or Erik,
Have you heard of any info on the improvement of the material of A-M ring?
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Inspired by you Jakov, I recently took a shot of my Japanese Maple with the the 135 2.0 wide open. I don't remember if I was playing around with the defocus control on this one but maybe you can tell. I couldn't find any info about this in the metadata detailing the shot.
The second one is with a 24 1.4 wide open of the same scene, same time. This shot suffers by comparison because the background is too busy for my liking but does reflects some differences from the 135 of the blur effect. I'll shoot the 24 again with more attention paid to background as I wish to show no disrespect to a lens of which I am quite fond.
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Tom, that's a lovely maple.
I can tell from your shot whether you used DC, if so, probably on the rear de-focus side because the background is beautifully creamy. Having said that, the background would probably be blurred on its own without the need for the DC effect.
Thanks!
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Lots of nice images in this thread :) My copy had its issues with different cameras, but after tightening the screw`s on the mount and fine tuning the AF with Reikan Focal it performs like a champ.
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Børge, pure magic!
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This thread has gone a bit quiet, so time for me to chime in. This was the first Nikon lens I bought after finally jumping to digital photography in 2008. I'd rented it on a recommendation, and was duly astonished by the photos it could produce. Although this thread is more focused (bad choice of words) on the magical DC aspect of the lens, I also especially like the way it renders distant detail when stopped down to f/5.6-8. I can immediately identify photos I've taken with it. Fine details are precisely but finely expressed, without the hard contrasts and grittiness I see from some "surgically sharp" lenses (words fail me a bit here, not sure that I can describe it any better).
Here are some examples. The first is part of a composite 6-frame vertical "panorama", stacked from multiple photos to maintain focus from pebbles in front of the camera out to a mountain at infinity. The scene is a small frozen lake beneath Dubris and Bibra Valleys, alongside Hatherton Glacier in Antarctica. The second is a small 100% clip from the first, lightly sharpened in raw processing, but not further. These are from a D7000 (DX) at f/6.3. The second one shows what the lens can do at several hundred meters. The third image was taken just a few days ago, of course inspired by the amazing photos Jakov has been posting to this thread. It's from a D810 at f/2.2, with the DC control set to 5.6R. This way of using the lens is entirely new to me. I've used the DC control occasionally when trying to take portraits, never with much evident success, and always set at or below the aperture value as instructed by the manual. Now thanks to Jakov I've got a second, entirely new lens to play around with! Botanists - please go ahead and correct my flower identification. [Fixed next day - My guess was anemones, but that was from googling 'red flower'. Bjorn indicates that it's a species of Geum. Thanks! So please ignore the photo title].
Cheers, John
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Lots of nice images in this thread :) My copy had its issues with different cameras, but after tightening the screw`s on the mount and fine tuning the AF with Reikan Focal it performs like a champ.
This is a very special shot. It has no clear focal emphasis yet or because of that transports a huge emotional content.
This is the thing about your shots. An emotional connection.
I sure have to train that. Your every post teaches me. Thank you.
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Berylium10: your flowers are a species of Geum (Avens) in the Rose Family. These red variants often come from southern America (Chile).
The unique lens qualities are amply demonstrated.
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Bjørn or Erik,
Have you heard of any info on the improvement of the material of A-M ring?
Sorry I forgot to reply on this one ;)
I have never had any issues with the A-M Ring on any of my lenses, and I still have the 20-35mm 2.8 AF-D and 14mm 2.8 AF-D both working perfectly,,,
Bjørn and many others reporting on cracks and breaking,,, I have only seen this in photos online,,, not on new or used lenses.
I believe there must have been a silent upgrade in material specifications for these rings, they appear to look different, the surface texture changed at some point. But this is just a guess - I believe it can bee seen/deducted from Rolands pages last time I had a look,,,
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I agree with with Erik on every count.
My 85/1.4 D is 12 years old and I haven't encountered difficulties with the A-M ring.
Also, Roland needs to update the serial numbers since my 135 DC goes beyond his listing of 520919, and it's 521117 :)
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Erik and Jakov, thanks for sharing your experiences with the A-M rings. Personally I think I have seen a sample with a cracked ring at a named camera store in Tokyo.
On Roland's website, 135 and 105DCs are the only lenses for which the images of two different samples can be seen. I cannot detect any differrences. The newer version looks a bit like CG.
Hope Nikon improved the material or construction to address the issue.
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Thanks Jakov, I'm sure all the serial numbers need updating, Nikon keeps making more! But I can only add numbers that I know about :)
I'll add yours to my database. When did you buy it?
As for the A-M ring, maybe in the cold it becomes brittle or shrinks relative to the barrel so is put under tension and therefore cracks at the weak point near the release button. That might explain why Bjørn has problems with the A-M ring in the Nordic cold, while others in warmer climes are unaffected ??
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According to the 1st page of this thread I received the lens on 13th April :)
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Just refreshed my site, your lens (or the serial number at least) is now world famous :)
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World famous at last, thanks Roland ;)
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Thanks to all for your guidance on the intricacies of this remarkable lens. I have an early pre D model of the 135 f2 DC, and am using it on a D7200. Still much to learn.....
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chambeshi, my name is Jakov. It would be great to know your name. We all like to know with whom we're talking to.
The second to last purple one is nice.
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Probably of only passing interest, if that, to most. These DC lenses can be stacked with the front of the image defocused AND the rear of the image also defocused.
Then, when the two images are stacked, you get a central image in focus, with both front and rear of the image defocused, as opposed to a linear grading in one direction, as most images demonstrate.
Shot with the Nikon D810 and the 135mm AF DC at f/2, both defocused and pushed as far as possible. You can clearly see this in the photo of the larger (taller) flower that the focus (such as it is) in the lower part of the front center of the flower, and there are defocused areas both in front and behind. Might be useful; might not.
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Probably of only passing interest, if that, to most. These DC lenses can be stacked with the front of the image defocused AND the rear of the image also defocused.
Then, when the two images are stacked, you get a central image in focus, with both front and rear of the image defocused, as opposed to a linear grading in one direction, as most images demonstrate.
Shot with the Nikon D810 and the 135mm AF DC at f/2, both defocused and pushed as far as possible. You can clearly see this in the photo of the larger (taller) flower that the focus (such as it is) in the lower part of the front center of the flower, and there are defocused areas both in front and behind. Might be useful; might not.
Seems like a new concept to me, de-focus stacking :D :D
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Micheal I like the concept. Show us some more where the DC is more pronounced, please :)
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two recent photos with the 135 f2 DC on moving subjects, a Chinese goose and flock of Indian Runner Ducks
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One more portrait ISO 200, f6.3 on D7200
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Chambeshi, these are nice portraits :)
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Now, in case there are any doubts why I like the 135DC, which is becoming more and more my favorite lens.
Well this is why :)
Shooting directly into a strong light source, like the Sun in this case, can be a challenge for most glass, but with the 135DC you only enjoy the process.
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oh my hat - you make the lens sing :)
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The red against the green is smashing Jakov! I have to be careful not to abuse the powerful 135 mm DC drug :)
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Super bubble bokeh in your image Jakov.
I really also like your interesting spider image Børge.
I see some resemblance to Trioplan lenses but I'm no expert in these.
This really triggers my interest in this lens. How is the 105DC?
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"How is the 105DC?"
Sharper, but maybe less 'ball-sy'.
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105/1.4 is even less "ball-sy" ;D
I would love to try and compare the two DC's and see which is the "ball-sy-er".
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Love the stunning red, Jakov!
Now, in case there are any doubts why I like the 135DC, which is becoming more and more my favorite lens.
Oh, c'mon, who would doubt that?!?!
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Now, in case there are any doubts why I like the 135DC, which is becoming more and more my favorite lens.
Well this is why :)
Shooting directly into a strong light source, like the Sun in this case, can be a challenge for most glass, but with the 135DC you only enjoy the process.
Stunning, Absolutely Stunning!! Great photo in bokeh and balance...
these DC lenses stand apart.....
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Thank you Elsa, Børge, Daniel, Akira and Chambeshi :)
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Hmm, impressive circles, Børge and Jakov.
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Hello,
Yes, it 's a lens with a real signature!
In good conditions of shots it gives the best even to f / 2
It has some softness (ideal for portrait) but without erasing important details!
You will understand that I love this lens :D :D :D
f/3,5
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8678/16613139162_45c55488f2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rj3FtQ)Modèle : Amélie - ma fille. (my daughter) (https://flic.kr/p/rj3FtQ) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
f/2,5
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/423/20006096176_6423df8732_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/wtStoG)Modèle : Eléonore (ma fille - my daughter) (https://flic.kr/p/wtStoG) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
f/2,8
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/601/22196677029_26b2fb6d31_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/zPrLL6)Amélie (https://flic.kr/p/zPrLL6) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
f/4,5
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8207/28464132034_c435b0ec4e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Knh7M9)Amélie (https://flic.kr/p/Knh7M9) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
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Nobody questions this lens and its ability to do portraiture after seeing Christophe's excellent series ...
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Thanks Bjørn, :)
Yes, the portrait is really the first use of this lens!
The DC function is very subtle and I rarely use !
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I am in the market for a 105/135 lens and had narrowed my choices down to Zeiss Milvus 100mm, Zeiss Milvus or Apo Sonnar 135mm, Nikon 1.4E, Nikon 105 DC and Nikon 135mm DC.
I had a chat with Jakov about it and he was kind enough to borrow his 135mm DC, especially to test the CA issue (a reason why I ditched the 105mm 2.8 VR in the past). I also compared the lens with the 70-200 f4 VR for portraits. Camera used: D810. Herewith my findings.
1. The 135mm suffers from quite a bit of CA, both purple and green up to f8. At f8 and beyond it becomes better. I did not test the 70-200 in this area.
2. I also noticed the front-focusing issue on my camera but did not bother adjusting it.
w.r.t. Bokeh at f4 both do equally well. I did not see much difference. Obviously the f2 is a plus for the 135 if you want narrower DoF. The DC feature makes it an even better solution for isolating a subject.
3. The build of the 135 is beautiful. Better than the 70-200 f4. But AF of the 70-200 is snappier. In my opinion the 70-200 is sharper and has more contrast. I have to be somewhat careful because the VR function may have helped me. On the other hand, I shoot mostly out of hand, so this is closer to reality to me.
4. The color rendering is different but both are believable IMHO.
There is definitely one area where the 135 (and 105) shines and that is the what I call "crazy-effects". That is something that Jakov has mastered. I have not. My miserable attempt:
(http://www.visualcue.photography/img/s11/v30/p2148451364-6.jpg)
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Peter, I don't see any CA in the image you posted :D
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Peter, I don't see any CA in the image you posted :D
That is why this lens is perfect for these type of photos. But these are some other examples shwoing the fringing:
purple:
(http://www.visualcue.photography/img/s7/v159/p2148631910-6.jpg)
green:
(http://www.visualcue.photography/img/s6/v148/p2148632017-5.jpg)
see belly:
(http://www.visualcue.photography/img/s6/v145/p2148632303-5.jpg)
And I can show you others: white pants, caps, etc.
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I am in the market for a 105/135 lens and had narrowed my choices down to Zeiss Milvus 100mm, Zeiss Milvus or Apo Sonnar 135mm, Nikon 1.4E, Nikon 105 DC and Nikon 135mm DC.
No, you haven't "narrowed" your choices at all. ;D
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No, you haven't "narrowed" your choices at all. ;D
Haha. You might be right but I removed the DC lenses from the list. For now...
As I am also hesitant to buy a MF lens, I will take the 70-200 f4 VR with me on my next trip to get to know the lens a bit better, especially in portrait and flower photographyb. I have that lens now and the DC lenses do not provide me with sufficient benefits to add one of those lenses. Which is obviously a very personal thing. As said, for now and until it becomes very tempting to move into the field of creative photography.
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The above CA can be corrected with a click in ACR so a non issue in any normal shooting situation.
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The above CA can be corrected with a click in ACR so a non issue in any normal shooting situation.
I know that and I have been doing that but it has an impact.
I could even live with that but I also did not see a noticeable IQ difference.
So the main point that remains is the build, extra DoF and the creative possibilities.
Not enough to justify the invesment right now.
Just from my perspective of course.
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Hello to all,
I also very often A C R but it is processed very easily and without loss of quality I find, moreover, I only work on JPEG!
But whatever the photographic lens used, the main thing is that it meets these needs, and that one makes oneself pleasures, then good photographs to all of you! :D :D
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/567/31091746574_7936557972_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Pntk37)Vitrail - Cathédrale Poitiers! (https://flic.kr/p/Pntk37) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5730/31017574252_95635d2c40_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PfVbbY)Automne! (https://flic.kr/p/PfVbbY) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8245/29265284305_d72d9f35db_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LA5erk)Lady in the street! (https://flic.kr/p/LA5erk) by Christophe (https://www.flickr.com/photos/christophe_picq/), sur Flickr
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The possibilities of the 135 are endless :)
In the second image of the 3 you can clearly see what happens with the DC when set to front focus. The front of the image is nicely blurred while the background makes the sexy bokeh that I like :D
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Christophe, nice shots, especially #3.
Jakov, that's probably the best demo of DC effects I've seen so far.
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Christophe, nice shots, especially #3.
Jakov, that's probably the best demo of DC effects I've seen so far.
Yes, Cristophe's shots are nice, especially #3!
Thanks, Airy! I guess not many people own this lens, and those that do never abuse it as much as I do :)
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I got a 105/2.0 DC (not : 135) in hands several times, but do not remember effects to be such strong.
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My daughter last July
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3892/33233896271_5197da493e_o.jpg)
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I got a 105/2.0 DC (not : 135) in hands several times, but do not remember effects to be such strong.
Next time, open it @f/2.0 and turn the DC ring all the way to the end, not to 2.0 as the lens manual suggests.
Lovely portrait Peter. You are using the lens the proper way :)
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Jakov, that's probably the best demo of DC effects I've seen so far.
Yes, agree !
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It has been a while since I last abused the 135DC :)
Let me know which is your favorite!
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It has been a while since I last abused the 135DC :)
Let me know which is your favorite!
The first of the dandelion shots, the one with the red tail light in the background?
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It has been a while since I last abused the 135DC :)
Let me know which is your favorite!
140802 is my favourite!
Superb image Jakov, you have almost got me scouring ebay for a 135. I have the 105DC in the back of a cupboard somewhere. I will have to go and find it.
Cheers
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I like the last one, but admire the new red tail light bokeh technique!
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It takes talent to make make abuse beautiful. Love them all, especially that first dandelion...
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Spring joy :-*
Wonderful
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Jakov, Jakov, Jakov
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Beautiful Jakov.
140802 is also my favo. But 140906 comes close ;)
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Overwhelmed by all you comments, thank you!
Bjørn, it seems that most agree with your favorite. Who am I to dispute your selection.
BEZ, get that 105DC out and misuse it. The only reason why chose the 135DC is because I don't have that focal length in any of my lenses, unlike 105.
Akira, I think the last one is best, too. It has the minimalist element with flare on top.
Ashlandish, thank you so much for your praise.
Erik, yes, spring and romance are in the air. We must take full advantage!
Keith, Keith, Keith :D
Thank you John! You see why I had difficulties choosing one.
Thankfully I have you around to point out the créme de la créme for me :)
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I couldn't resist more abuse tonight.
Returned from Amsterdam, saw the tulips close to my crib, parked my car, grabbed the gear and approached the subjects.
Which one this time :)
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#2, definitely and last a close second but they are all great
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Number four for me Jakov, but in truth I like all of them.
I need the colours, such as these, as our colder weather has started down here and we slide into late autumn and winter.
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Beautiful. Number 2 and 4 for me :)
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While the kids were decorating the Christmas tree a few nights ago I got a chance for some fun with the 135mm f/2 ... The first is with the DC set to zero, the second to full rear defocus and the third to full front defocus. The last is with the 180mm f/2.8 AiS. A pattern of little diffraction blemishes can be seen on the blur circles in the 135mm images - any idea where these might originate? The 180mm image is quite a bit cleaner. Merry Xmas to those who celebrate it, and all the best to everyone else!
John
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A pattern of little diffraction blemishes can be seen on the blur circles in the 135mm images - any idea where these might originate? The 180mm image is quite a bit cleaner.
Dust/dirt in side the lens?
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dust on rear element
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John,
These are lovely images which, along with Jakov's DC photos of the tulips, have caused me to put Nikkor DCs on my list. Just curious, what aperture were you using for the photos taken with the 135 DC? Perhaps F2.8/4.0 or so.
To All: Enjoy the holidays...Robert
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Robert - thanks. These were all taken wide open, so f/2 for the 135mm. Closing down, even to f/2.8, makes the disk edges non-circular. The 135 DC is a favorite lens. Still fairly expensive second-hand, though prices came down quite a bit after release of the 105mm f/1.4.
Erik and Charlie, thanks, that's good news - something I can get at to clean. I'd wondered if I was seeing diffraction around something internal, with the lens so far out of focus. I did try to clean the rear element with a blower, but probably left a few specks that I'll need to take off with a cloth.
Cheers again, John
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John,
To clarify, do I understand that the out-of-focus disks (X-mas tree lights, I think) stretch out, assuming a progressively more elliptical shape with smaller apertures?
...Thanks again, Robert
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Hi again Robert - they are out-of-focus Xmas tree lights, but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture. To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post. Cheers, John
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/953/41909759822_3588394689_o.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/963/41909758072_e37d67f58b_o.jpg)
D3 135mm f/2DC max frontside blur, max rearside blur
posted earlier i know
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...but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture. To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post.
Got it - thanks, John. For me, these photos with the DCs by you, Fons, and Jakov highlight the importance of out-of-focus regions. Discretely managed, out-of-focus features can make for strikingly beautiful photos.
Robert
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Some great shots in this thread. Here are some new images to bring it back to life.
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...but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture. To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post.
Got it - thanks, John. For me, these photos with the DCs by you, Fons, and Jakov highlight the importance of out-of-focus regions. Discretely managed, out-of-focus features can make for strikingly beautiful photos.
Robert
Hi Robert, stopping down the DC lenses is blasphemy :)
I am yet to stop it down beyond f/4, and i only shoot at f/4 in case i shoot portraits and need a bit of depth to get both eyes in focus.
Otherwise, when abusing DC, f/2 is the way to go.
Jack and Fons have shown exemplary images :)
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I’m not sure if Robert is still following this thread, but I will be happy to agree with you Jakov, the lens is most interesting at the extremes. I’d also like to add that the rounded aperture blades help keep the circles mostly round even when stopped down. They are not perfect, but are better than the typical Nikkor aperture. Here is a photo comparing with the 180mm f/2.8 ED. 180mm on the left side of photo.
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Sorry to go off on a slight tangent. but does anyone know of online instructions about opening up & cleaning one of these?
I have my eye on one at a fair price, but the owner reports it as being 'dusty' :-0
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Sorry to go off on a slight tangent. but does anyone know of online instructions about opening up & cleaning one of these?
I have my eye on one at a fair price, but the owner reports it as being 'dusty' :-0
Where is the dust? There is a rear cover glass which should keep most dust out of it. Potentially it is fungus inside.
I have not taken mine apart but it appears to have a helicoid which is associated with the DC lens group in the front. This is controlled by the dedicated DC ring.
Then there is the focus group which is behind the aperture and which is controlled by the focus ring. This group is also driven by screwdriver AF.
What do you consider a fair price? Mine was under US$600 and is in nearly unused condition. There are many others in great condition available for around that price.
Sorry to not be too helpful, but I expect that this would not be a great lens to experiment on unless you got it for a very good price. Paying a bit more for one which requires less attention may be worthwhile.
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Since you are in Tokyo, you may want to contact Richard Haw - he might be interested in disassembling and cleaning to put on his blog.
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Where is the dust? There is a rear cover glass which should keep most dust out of it. Potentially it is fungus inside.
I have not taken mine apart but it appears to have a helicoid which is associated with the DC lens group in the front. This is controlled by the dedicated DC ring.
Then there is the focus group which is behind the aperture and which is controlled by the focus ring. This group is also driven by screwdriver AF.
What do you consider a fair price? Mine was under US$600 and is in nearly unused condition. There are many others in great condition available for around that price.
Sorry to not be too helpful, but I expect that this would not be a great lens to experiment on unless you got it for a very good price. Paying a bit more for one which requires less attention may be worthwhile.
Sadly I don't know the details, and the seller is not very savvy..
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I’m not sure if Robert is still following this thread, but I will be happy to agree with you Jakov, the lens is most interesting at the extremes. I’d also like to add that the rounded aperture blades help keep the circles mostly round even when stopped down. They are not perfect, but are better than the typical Nikkor aperture. Here is a photo comparing with the 180mm f/2.8 ED. 180mm on the left side of photo.
Oops not noticed how old Robert's post was ;D
I adore the 180/2.8 ED, too. It is also renders a smooth background regardless of the aperture blades as you illustrated.
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Oops not noticed how old Robert's post was ;D
I adore the 180/2.8 ED, too. It is also renders a smooth background regardless of the aperture blades as you illustrated.
I like it too, but it is an awkward length for me. I usually want something shorter or longer. Most times I bring it along, I end up not using it.
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roku-sen boke
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Very nice Jack this instrument deserves too :)
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One of my first attempts at abusing the 105mm. But I thought too much and shot at f5.6 :-(
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51196425781_29f656402e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m144Je)750_1974 (https://flic.kr/p/2m144Je) by Richard Hawking (https://www.flickr.com/photos/randomhawk/), on Flickr
I have much to learn ... :-\
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Nice work Jack - every physics teacher should see this image.
roku-sen boke
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roku-sen boke
inspiring image Jack, thanks! I do not know what roku-sen really means. Can you translate or circumscribe it ? The guitar strings view of front and back boke might be interesting to see for other portrait lenses, which some of the posters here may have. How would the Noct, the "Neo-Noct" Af-S 58mm f/1.4 , the AF-S 105mm f/1.4, the Sigma Art 105mm f/1.4 and the Sigma Art 135mm f/1.8 or the Z Plena 135mm f/1.8 show their boke along the strings ?
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my quick boke test for the AF-S 105mm f/1.4 at f/1.4 MFD. I used a black mouse mat for improved uniformity of background. I do not have the other Portrait lenses, except a AF 135mm f/2 DC. I would be curious to see your quick string boke tests.
The AF-S 105mm f/1.4 has a boke close to neutral with no outlining of the front boke. In the near field back boke it shows a distribution with center emphasis as the DC lenses. From Oelund's reports, I would expect the Neo-Noct behaves similarly, probably with more emphasis on the near field boke.